Really enjoyable night at Fort William Mountain Festival despite the torrential rain that fell Last night it was the Hill Running night at the Fort William Mountain Festival really enjoyable and Manny gave his great chat on the Corbetts. The audience was enthralled as he took you on his personal journey round the Corbetts. It was a cut down affair only just under an hour but again enthralling to see it again. The evening started with an incredible film of The Dragon’s Back an evening of film, chat and inspiration. The Dragon’s Back is an extreme mountain race in Wales which has been run only twice at 10 year intervals. It showed all the pain and suffering that one gets in such an event. This was run over 5 days and the extreme running was painful to watch at times. The end of the night we had Finday Wild who ran the Skye Ridge in just under 3 hours in summer and two of the four who did the Skye winter traverse in 12 hours. It was a short Question and answer session at the end of a great night it was inspirational.
CLIMBING NIGHT – SATURDAY 22ND FEBRUARY 2014
The 2014 Climbing Night will feature 2 British Climbers who have both won the prestigious Piolet d’Orawards for their successful expeditions. Read on for further information on both speakers and their amazing ascents.
The 1st Ascent of the Mazeno Ridge – Sandy Allan
Around 6pm on the 15th of July, 2012 Sandy Allan and Rick Allen reached the summit of Nanga Parbat via the first ascent of the Mazeno Ridge.
The monstrous undertaking of the Mazeno Ridge includes seven 7000 meters to be traversed before reaching the Mazeno Gap where there is a junction with the 1976 Schell Route, Sandy and Rick then went up via the upper section to reach the worlds 5th highest 8000m summit.
The Mazeno is the longest arête on any 8000 meter peak: a staggering 13km from the Mazeno Pass at 5377m to where it joins the south southeast ridge or Schell Route, then a further two kilometers via the Diamir Flank to the summit.
Following the completion of their epic journey both Sandy and Rick were awarded the prestigious Piolet d’Or which not only recognises performance but celebrates passion, spirit and values.
“Nanga Parbat (8,125m), Western Himalaya, Pakistan – Piolet d’Or Awards
The complete Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat was undoubtedly one of the most famous unclimbed lines on the great peaks of the Karakorak/Himalaya, having been attempted many times, and by some of the world’s greatest mountaineers…
They crossed all eight Mazeno summits, and from a bivouac at 7,200m made an unsuccessful attempt on the unclimbed continuation of the ridge direct to the top. At this point all but Allan and Allen gave up and made a difficult descent to the south. The British pair eventually traversed the north flank to the summit and made a difficult descent of the Normal Route on the north flank, reaching the bottom after a traverse lasting 18 days.”
Sandy Allan will be joining us to share his experience of this fantastic mountaineering expedition. Book your tickets to enjoy an evening of inspiration from world class climbers.
The Prow of Shiva – Mick Fowler
On the 11th of October, 2012 British climbers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden established a new line on the seldom-climbed Shiva in the Himalaya.
The 6142m route travels along the northwest buttress, named as the Prow of Shiva. Fowler and Ramsden completed the fifth ascent of this peak via by far the most difficult line.
Following two days approaching Shiva, Mick and Paul navigated a complex glacier leading to the base of the northwest ridge. Out of viable options the climbers were forced into an overhanging crack, then unaware of the terrain above.
At one stage Mick had to “struggle up a blank, overhanging groove to gain a steep, wide, snow-choked crack”. Unfortunately on the sixth day from base camp, the team faced an “impassable gap and afternoon bad weather” that delayed their summit bid.
Mick and Paul then reached the summit at 10am on the 11th October as they describer their ascent as “ranked alongside the best either of us have experienced in the Himalaya”.
‘It was one of those lines that we knew that we just HAD to climb as soon as we saw it. We didn’t know whether we could and the outcome was uncertain until the very end. Just the way we like it. Brilliant!’”
“Shiva (6,142m), India – – Piolet d’Or Awards
Elegance summarises the traverse of this mountain east of Kishtwar, effected via the arrow-like northeast ridge, dubbed the Prow of Shiva, followed by a descent of the south ridge. It was the fifth known ascent of the mountain. Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden (UK), 2003 recipients of a Piolet d’Or, completed a traverse in a nine-day round trip from base camp, finding sustained climbing on the Prow, which ranged from the numerous pitches up icy cracks in Chamonix-type granite to long, protectionless leads on thinly-iced slabs reminiscent of winter climbing on Ben Nevis.”
Thanks the mountain Festival – tonight is the Climbing night and Andy Nisbet’s presentation I will be down for that before heading for home.