The Tarbuck knot! – The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection.

 

When I joined the RAF Mountain Rescue Team at RAF Kinloss the knotS I was taught was the Tarbuck knot, the bowline, figure of eight, the Clove Hitch, Alpine butterfly and the prussick knot. It was a bit hard for me to learn them and I kept a piece of old rope in the bathroom and another nearby when watching TV. (A good tip even for today)

The Tarbuck knot in action. Taff Tunnah RIP.

The Tarbuck knot in action. Taff Tunnah RIP. Salami belt used coils of rope!

The Tarbuck knot was developed by Kenneth Tarbuck for use by climbers, and was primarily used with stranded nylon ropes before the advent of kernmantle ropes made this use both unnecessary and unsafe.[1] It is used when the rope is subject to heavy or sudden loads, as it will slide to a limited extent thus reducing shock. The knot is non-jamming.

Scan0056

History : This knot was devised around 1952 by climber and skier Ken Tarbuck to cope with post-war nylon climbing ropes. It was an end man’s tie-on to a karabiner, intended to absorb sudden loads by slipping until the load was reduced to a safe weight (when the knot would hold). But no sooner had it become widely known through Tarbuck’s expert writing and lecturing, than kernmantel (core-sheath) climbing ropes emerged. These absorb shock loading by their elasticity and the Tarbuck knot can ruin such ropes, gripping and stripping the outer sheath. It is therefore no longer recommended for its original specialized purpose.

The waist belt with karabiner - photo The Mountain Heritage Collection.

I was also issued with one of these The waist belt with karabiner – photo The Mountain Heritage Collection.

How things change!

Well worth having a look at the Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection a great website of interesting gear!

The Tarbuck knot for all you keen people!

The Tarbuck knot for all you keen people!

About heavywhalley.MBE

Lecturer and Mountain Rescue Specialist
This entry was posted in Equipment, Gear, Mountain rescue, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Views Mountaineering. Bookmark the permalink.

3 Responses to The Tarbuck knot! – The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection.

  1. gpcox says:

    Whoa! and have your life depend on that knot!!?!

    Like

  2. Pingback: 1950 Viking Rope Catalog – Vertical Archaeology

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