The great Northeast cliff of Lochnagar was famously hailed as “the crucible of modern mixed climbing” in Scotland. This accolade may still hold true, but there can be no doubt that the sprawling hulk of Creag an Dubh Loch is now giving the ‘Gar a serious run for its money.
The remoteness and magnificence of the cliffs of the Black Lake; the unparalleled grandeur and quality of the climbing; the pace of recent developments and the remaining scope for the future – it’s an intoxicating and addictive place for even the most seasoned of winter climbing palates. What’s most interesting to me, however, is the one feature that defines all the great Dubh Loch routes – ice.
Labyrinth Direct. Vertigo Wall. Goliath. The Giant. Vapouriser. King Rat. Culloden. Sword of Damocles. Range War – from grade VI to grade X, this truly is a role call of the very finest…
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