ENTRIES BY DAVE HAHN
MT. EVEREST EXPEDITION: TEAM TO ORGANIZE SAFE RETREAT FROM THE MOUNTAIN – Dave Hahn is a well respected Mountain Guide his words are powerful and thought provoking.
DAVE HAHN, MOUNTAIN GUIDE, RMI EXPEDITIONS
Dave Hahn has reached the summit of Mount Everest fifteen times (out of 19 tries), more than any non-sherpa climber. He has guided climbers to the summit of Mount Rainier more than 275 times, and has led 29 attempts on Denali, reaching the summit 20 times. Dave has reached the summit of the Vinson Massif in Antarctica 35 times. In 2006 Dave guided a team of professional athletes on an expedition to ski Mount Everest. In 1999 Dave participated in the expedition that discovered and identified the remains of explorer George Mallory, who died trying to scale Everest in 1924. Dave has been on seven expeditions to the island of South Georgia and has led trekkers overland on the “Shackleton Traverse”, which in 2004 won Outside Magazine’s Trip of the Year Award.
“We’ve come to the inescapable conclusion that Everest summit for 2015 is out of reach for our team. Besides the rather obvious and glaring philosophical difficulties of pursuing a recreational venture in the midst of a national -and local- disaster, there are the on-the-ground mountaineering realities that will not permit us to look upward again. We have no viable route through the Khumbu Icefall and the Earth is still shaking. We couldn’t think of asking anyone to put themselves at the risk required for re establishing that route under such circumstances. The effort at this advanced stage of the season would normally be focused on building a route to Camp 4 rather than to Camp 1, nobody will be able to say when the aftershocks will end, but it will -without a doubt- be too late for fixing the upper mountain and stocking camps before the normal advance of the monsoon.
We’ll put our efforts into an organized and safe retreat from the mountain. Nobody harbors illusions that travel in this stricken and damaged country will be simple, but we’ll head for home now in any case.”
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
“I have been horrified by some of the UK press coverage, which has concentrated on the Everest situation so heavily as to exclude or desperately minimise the suffering of the Nepali people themselves. Particularly in the first day or two after the quake, Western mountaineering organisations failed in very large measure to acknowledge that this was anything other than a disaster affecting Western climbers. The BMC gave a spectacular example of this appallingly blinkered approach. For how many views of the avalanche hitting EBC have we seen, on social media, footage of the impact of the quake on the rest of the country?”
What Bill Rea says. I find it hugely upsetting that the majority of the media coverage has been about those on Everest and not about the plight of the wonderful local people, the majority of whom had nothing before the quake and who now must be wondering what they have done to anger the gods. Namaste.
” After the initial earthquake hit the disparity in the news presented on British news I feel was quite appalling. Surly the fact that all mountaineers especially those that go and take part in Expeditions on Everest know the inherent risk and the very high risk that a simple accident may ultimately may lead to their demise. The initial news on the BBC showed the Avalanche hitting Base Camp on Everest 5 or 6 times then there was a short story showing two Nepalese people trying and failing to rescue they thought up to twenty people still alive I guess we will never know whether they lived or died..!
Having been involved in search and rescue for over thirty years, the sanctity of life should never be forgotten but it also shouldn’t depend on who you are as to whether you live or die.
My heart-felt thoughts and prayers go out to the families waiting for news about their loved ones on Everest, but lets not forget the raising death toll 4,000+ The Nepalese have a long tradition of assisting in people’s dream’s of climbing the highest mountain in the world lets not forget that bond that has existed for so long.
Lets hope that the help being dispatched to assist in the rescue efforts for everyone is too to.
And thank you Dave for raising a question that so needed to be asked let’s hope people give you the real feeling, or just put it to the back of their minds and just carry on.”
“Expeditions are a great opportunity to educate us about the wonderful world. But I have to agree that in all these huge tragedies it appears a greater emphasis is placed on the uk citizens who are the victims. So many are perishing, so many have lost everything and yet they show great resilience to help each other with every last ounce of strength. Yet it’s the westerners who seem to get the !media interest. I was appalled on London BBC when the focus was on that of a father who did not here from his daughter traveling Nepal for 2 hours. Yes distressing, yes concerning, but what concerned me was the glorifying of poverty tourism. Peoples suffering is not our entertainment but it must be our conscience.”
“Sorry just to clarify people felt there should be far more coverage of what is happening in the whole country, and less coverage of western climbers on one mountain.”
Di Gilbert Blogspothttp://digilbert.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/the-big-picture.html
Di Gilbert works full-time as an Independent Mountaineering Instructor, based in the Cairngorm National Park. She has never had a proper job and it is unlikely that this will change now.
Di has stood on the bottom of the world without falling off, she has stood on top of the world without suffering from vertigo, she has climbed the world’s 7 summits and completed all 282 Munros. A voice worth listening to?
“I have been watching and reading about the situation in Nepal with a heavy heart. It upsets me when Nepal is called a poor country – in the 20 years I have been travelling there, it is anything but poor. The environment is rich, the culture is rich and the people that live there are rich with smiles, with laughter and friendship. So, when you see the environment get ripped apart; the culture being destroyed and the smiles, laughter and friendship disappearing, it is only then that I will agree by saying that Nepal is poor.”