The North East Coast rock – Cummingston, Covesea. Logie Head – Redhye – Crag “Y” – East Coast fun.

Scotand is in a rare heatwave and yesterday I had a swim at my local crag at Cummingston a 20 minute walk away from my house. It is by the sea and a regular place to the see the dolphins and maybe an otter. It is place I used a lot as a young lad at RAF Kinloss when I was with the RAF MRT. Ir a swimt it also has many caves and rock pools and a great place for a day with the kids to enjoy. It can be busy as many Mountain Centres now use it and the path is fairly eroded – what is going to be done about that?  fThe Moray Walking Trail goes by but few see the cliffs but is worth a visit.

 

Crag Y

Crag Y on the East Coast

The East Coast of Scotland is a bonnie place it has some incredible walks, cliffs and inlets. There is also so much wild life about from birds to Dolphins. The flowers sea pink, scurvy Grass  and the huge daises ( sorry about my ignorance) along with fields of barley is worth a trip for. Many secrets are discovered by those who fish or more recently Kayak along this coast or scramble down to see these wild places. The rock varies but at times had such incredible colours of lichen bright yellow and with the sun and the sea this is another special place. For the climber there is so much scope for new climbs and rarely will you see another climber or even a person!

There are many great walks that take you to some incredible places and this is on my doorstep.

The East Coast has so much potential ! Bow Fiddle Rock near Cullen!

The East Coast has so much potential ! Bow Fiddle Rock near Cullen!

Recovering from my operations mean I have been fairly limited in what I can do but I have been about and looking at the coast. I have climbed here for many years at Cummingston my local cliff now very busy and the path is very eroded.

Cummingston

Climbs 213 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude Tidal – Faces N

Crag features
Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening.  A place for Dolphins and wild life even the odd otter!

Access notes
From Elgin on the A96 head for Hopeman (6miles). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children’s play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards. No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy. Nowadays the erosion is pretty bad and needs some work.

Path erosion at Cummingston.

Path erosion at Cummingston.

Maybe some who use this wonderful place will get together and sort it out?  Any Takers?

Cummingston

Cummingston

Covesea  – Climbs 57 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
Cummingston’s lesser-known sibling is still well worth a visit with plenty of good leads in the low-mid extremes, and a few easier routes. As with many coastal crags, a fresh breeze and a due respect for the rock are useful to get the most out of it.

Access notes
From the East (Lossiemouth) on the B9040 pass the Covesea Skerries Lighthouse. A small rectangular wood is soon seen on the right on the approaching crest. Go beyond the wood to another larger wood and park on the track immediatly before it. Walk up track past radio masts and lookout station

There is also further along the coast Logie Head another rock climbing venue again it can be busy.

Logie Head

Logie Head

A series of walls facing east along one side of a ridge running north out to sea, with a few climbs also scattered along the west side.The routes at the landward end of the ridge are above a grassy landing (unique for a NE Outcrops seacliff) while the far end is tidal.

Logie Head Liz in action

Logie Head Liz in action

Birds can be a problem in the nesting season at the seaward end of the ridge.

Access notes
20 minute approach along a picturesque coastal path

Guidebooks
North East Outcrops (2003),

North East Guide Book SMC

North East Guide Book SMC buying this gUide book supports the Scottish Mountain Trust

Redhythe Point West of Portsoy NJ 575672

Climbs 57 – Rocktype  –Altitude Tidal – Faces N

Crag features
A pleasant low grade venue, with some very soft grading. The rock is metamorphosed sandstone  not perfect, but is sound enough.

Redhythe abseil in

Redhythe abseil in

Access notes
High tide affects some routes, but most are accessible via low level traverses.

 

Guidebooks
North East Outcrops (2003)

Redhythe

Redhythe

 

From here on wards  there is plenty rock about much of it unclimbed and in some incredible places. Much of it is on easier climbs but what a place to be and when the sun is out it is a place to be. With the long summer nights what a place to watch the sunsets! The Moray Coast Trail is well worth  a purchase.

Moray Coastal trail

 

About heavywhalley.MBE

After dinner speaker Lecturer and Mountain Rescue Specialist. Environmentalist. Spent 36 years with RAF Mountain Rescue and 4 years with a civilian Team . Still an active Mountaineer and loves the wild places.
This entry was posted in Flora, Friends, Gear, Local area and events to see, Mountain rescue, mountain safety, Rock Climbing, Views Mountaineering, Weather. Bookmark the permalink.

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