Coire An Lochan in the Cairngorms a Moray Mountaineering Club haunt in the past!

Moray Club in Lochan!

Moray Club in Lochan!

As the snows leave us for a brief spell I was looking through some of my lectures and this was from the Moray Mountaineering Club Dinner about the superb Coire an Lochan in the Cairngorms a place I love. With the lochans it a place of wild beauty at the end of a winter and soon it will be filled with climbers enjoying the mixed adventures on these cliffs in winter. It is now very busy when climbing conditions are in and you can have a great wander round the Northern Corries and watch the ice climbers in action.

The great slab just showing through.

The great slab just showing through.

From the UKC Climbing forum

The Lochan Cliffs – ” slightly longer approach than its neighbour, Corrie an t’Sneachda, makes this corrie a lot quieter.

Again – some excellent, reliable winter climbing – the steeper nature of this corrie yields some excellent technical mixed climbing and also very good rock-climbing.”

Must Dos :

The Vent (II/III)

Y Gully Left Branch (III)

Centre Crack Route (IV,5)

Savage Slit (V,6, Severe)

¨1935 April 13 th  -¨The Vent -First Ascent E.M Davidson, R.E Stoddart, M. Mc Bain. J. Geddes . H. Harrison. Moray Mountaineering Club

¨Climb started at 1400 hours due to heavy snow.

¨Reached plateau at 2000 hours

¨Back at Lodge at 2400 hours.

Dinner was still provided but unfortunately the pudding was burnt!

The Vent in Lochan

The Vent in Lochan an adventure!

Ewan Buttress named after John Clifford Spence Ewan. MMC killed on Mont Brevent 21 July 1935


Coire an Lochan

1939/45 ? Savage Slit 80 metre *** 3 Star Severe

“A  Cairngorm classic taking an impeccable line up the wide crack in the big right angled corner in the centre of the buttress

¨First ascent 1939 RB Frere. K.A.Robertson. MMC.

¨Classic Rock says First ascent July 1945 R.B. Frere & J.D.Walker?

Savage Slit

Savage Slit in winter another proposition!


Rock and ice Climbers’ Guidebook to The Cairngorms area of Scotland” – a definitive climbing guidebook from the Scottish Mountaineering Council. “The Cairngorms” all in one volume.This, the next in the SMC’s brand new series of “Climbers’ Guides”, covers all the summer and winter climbing in the northern and southern Cairngorms area.This title includes a number of the most popular and well-known climbing areas in the country. It is fully comprehensive and up to date, covering both summer and winter climbs. It contains much new and updated information. It features full colour throughout with photo-diagrams and action pictures.It is written by climbers with an in-depth knowledge of the area. It is user friendly in a successful and well presented format. It contains a page marker ribbon to ease the location of climbs. It covers the massive Cairngorms area in one guidebook.This title is written by a number of authors and previous guidebook writers who are mountain guides and leading activists sharing their expert knowledge of the area.

The Cairngorms Guide

The Cairngorms Guide

In the other Corrie  of the people

Note ” Coire of the snows – 1935 March  Alladins Couloir.

¨First ascent A. Henderson & E.M.Davidson. MMC¨

The obvious dog leg Gully in the Corrie

About heavywhalley.MBE

After dinner speaker Lecturer and Mountain Rescue Specialist. Environmentalist. Spent 36 years with RAF Mountain Rescue and 4 years with a civilian Team . Still an active Mountaineer and loves the wild places.
This entry was posted in Enviroment, Friends, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Scottish winter climbing., Views Mountaineering. Bookmark the permalink.

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