Another great afternoon on the rock at Redhythe. A place that never lets me down.


I had managed to get Dan my pal away from the DIY and studying and we planned to make use of the good weather and forecast of sun at last. It was planned for the afternoon when the tides were forecasted to be low. Redhythe is near Portsoy and a great place to climb for those of us who just want some fun and on a day like yesterday it is special.  Portsoy is only 45 minutes away on the coast and the rock climbing at Redhythe is not hard and can be very enjoyable. The views are marvellous and the situation of the sea and the many inlets and small cliffs make this a friendly place to be.

Arriving at the crag on a lovely afternoon.

Arriving at the crag on a lovely afternoon. The rock lichen such a bold yellow.

The roads were busy but we soon parked in the small car park there was another two cars in the car park and maybe for the first time we may have company on the cliffs. It is a 15 minute walk along past the fields and the sea was pretty calm but the path a bit muddy in places. The sea  was busy with a few boats about and someone swimming far off shore followed by a kayak! They were moving well. We were soon at the cliff  and the colours hit you as you arrive at the top of the cliff.

At the belay.

At the belay.

You can scramble down to the routes or abseil as we did and its good getting the thinking head on. If you have not climbed for a while then you must check everything is correct and safe, from the belay to your gear.  We were soon sorted and down by the sea, which was calm but no dolphins about or the huge shoals of mackerel as in on other visits. It is fun to be so near the sea and in this lovely place. Normally sea cliffs have an air of wildness but as always here it is special and the belay ledges are good and adequate but you still have to be careful.


We did a few climbs and though easy it was lovely to be back on the rock again with my old mate. We had some laughs and I loved it and what a day to be on the rock. The rock is fairly solid and you as always have to watch the odd flaky hold but despite the old body it was fun.  I had heard voices and further round were three fisherman enjoying the day in the sun. They had caught little but were like us having fun. We did 4 short routes and a couple of abseils and it was soon time to go back and enjoy a great night watching the Olympics.

Dan having fun.

Dan having fun. Out again on the rock.

The drive back was fun and a plan for Tuesday on a mountain route on the West Coast and it was great to be out on the rock just for a few hours in such great weather. As you get older you appreciate these days more and now I am recovering from a couple of years of illness it is wonderful to be out on the rock on a short but great afternoon.

“It is not what you do or where you go its to me who you go with and have fun enjoying every minute!

Portsoy – Redhythe Point – NJ 575 672

West End of Portsoy through house scheme  the track starts just past Kingdom Hall and you drive to a car park unsurfaced .  Head West along the cliff to old Coastguard lookout and then down to cliff find narrow grassy ridge head down you will see the yellow facing slabs  about 15 minutes from the car park.


Near the town of Portsoy on the Moray coast, Redhythe Point is a very good crag for those getting into leading, as well as providing sport for the more competent. Although partly tidal, many routes can still be climbed throughout the day. More like quartzite than sandstone.

North East Outcrops a great guide book by the SMC

North East Outcrops a great guide-book by the SMC

Covered in the 2003 NE outcrops guide

The Stack provides a few clean climbs, although the main point of interest is the crossing of the narrow channel separating it from the main crag. It also provides a good deep-water solo traverse at high tide mark above the channel.


Directions & Approach

On the west side of town, follow the signs to the sea level swimming pool  the Track is up by Kingdom Hall t – ask a local)and park in the large parking area. Walk west along the coast until you arrive at an abandoned target shelter, then bear right along a vague path to the top of the crag – 15 mins. You pass great fields of barley and all along have superb views of the coast and you may be lucky and have the cliffs all to yourself s,


About heavywhalley.MBE

After dinner speaker Lecturer and Mountain Rescue Specialist. Environmentalist. Spent 36 years with RAF Mountain Rescue and 4 years with a civilian Team . Still an active Mountaineer and loves the wild places.
This entry was posted in Books, Enviroment, Equipment, Local area and events to see, mountain safety, Rock Climbing, Views Mountaineering, Weather. Bookmark the permalink.

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