Guy Lacelle 1954 – 2009

I was looking at some old diaries and Guy name came up. I am trying to get a photo of him with us.

This drawing by Bugs McKeith inspired us.

We had decided to go to Canada it was the idea of Tom Mac Donald and Mark Sinclair who read about the incredible ice climbs that were in Canada. Many were climbed by a young Scottish climber Bugs MacKeith who had emigrated to Canada . He wrote about the possibility of incredible ice in great qualities in The SMC Journal He said Canada was a must visit for all inspiring Ice climbers. We scrimped and saved and had an amazing 5 weeks in Canada in the winter of 1983.

Guy Lacelle who we climbed with in Canada in the winter of 1983 was like many we met so helpful to us . Information on ice climbing in these days was basic and I think there were less than 100 routes in our guide. Guy was in his late 20’s these were his early days before he was famous. A tremendous climber who soled everything we-climbed with such ease. He was only a young man a non drinker yet he loved our company and we had parties at the weekend he was amazed by our socialising. He had just done early solos of many these incredible ice climbs and was so unassuming. We met him at the Alpine Club Hut at Canmore . He took us round the routes gave us so much information on the routes It is amazing that at that time many were not that often climbed then he gave us great advice. Already he was well known in Canada and had controversy decided not to go on the big Canadian Everest trip the year previous. He did not believe in big expeditions but extreme climbing to the limits of the day.

Yet he was an incredible Mountaineer and kind man. I am sure then he was a vegetarian at the time which was unusual and marvelled at our meat intake.

He looked after me soling at times on some of the routes we did. What a lovely man and became one of the worlds finest ice climbers.

Yet when we met him here was a man when we met him for that month in Canada was unique and I will always remembered him. I named him “Sacre Bleu “and he put up at route named that with one of our team Malcolm which was pretty technical for that period.

Sadly Guy was killed in an avalanche in 2009.

He was such a kind man and made our stay so special showing us the routes in a time when there were few climbing. I would have loved to have met him again sadly this is not to happen. This film is a tribute to him it’s inspirational and wild climbing.

He was a superb climber and even more so what a wonderful human being and man.

This tribute shows what a special talent he was. We met so many of the top men of the time Bill March, Rusty Bale, Albi Sole but Guy was the man.  When he saw our gear he was amazed that we could climb as well  (apart from me) Thats is another story for later. enjoy the video.

About heavywhalley.MBE

After dinner speaker Lecturer and Mountain Rescue Specialist. Environmentalist. Spent 36 years with RAF Mountain Rescue and 4 years with a civilian Team . Still an active Mountaineer and loves the wild places.
This entry was posted in Friends, Gear, Ice climbing Canada, Mountain rescue, Weather. Bookmark the permalink.

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