An interesting night with Clive Rowland “Wee chat” about an epic on the Ogre in Pakistan.

The Ogre – Baintha Brakk or The Ogre is a steep, craggy mountain, 7,285 metres high, in the Panmah Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountain range. It is located in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan: 7,285 metres: Karakoram

First ascent: Doug Scott, Chris Bonington

I have known Clive for many years he had a Climbing shop in Inverness and was always good to us lads with little cash. At the time he was an incredible mountaineer yet always interested in what we were up to. I got to know him well when my mate was killed on Lochnagar and he helped us a lot, there was no fuss just help and advice. He is a true Mountaineers mountaineer and few in his local pub have a clue of his past achievements. So last night was specail.

The Ogre in Pakistan holds a huge interest to mountaineers especially on the first ascent when Doug Scott broke both legs high up on the descent. What happened next was an epic of survival and Clive Rowland was a big part of the team that got Doug off the hill safely after 10 days on the mountain.

It is a great story of survival at high altitude and though it was written up in 1977/78 in books it is still an incredible story. There was a bit of press on the story at the time but imagine this tale nowadays with the Media coverage we have.

Clive told the tale in his own unassuming way and this was part of a series of the “Bandstand Bleathers” in the Braeval Hotel in Nairn for charity.

These were the Golden Years of British Alpine and Himalayan mountaineering. The world was a different place then so was the media interest. I so enjoyed the story so laid back and Clive’s dry sense of humour. Not many there realise what a man he is and what tales he has to tell.

He was asked “How did he get home” – he drove back via Afghanistan which was an epic on its own.

That’s another story?

We all hope maybe Clive will get his book finished there will be some stories in that.

Thanks to those who organised it: the Braeval Hotel and of course Clive and Fiona for making this an unforgettable night.

About heavywhalley.MBE

Mountain Rescue Specialist. Environmentalist. Spent 37 years with RAF Mountain Rescue and 3 years with a civilian Team . Still an active Mountaineer and loves the wild places.
This entry was posted in Books, Expeditions - Alaska - Himalayas etc, Friends, Local area and events to see, Mountaineering, Views Mountaineering, Well being. Bookmark the permalink.

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