Moray Mountaineering Club Journal Vol 1 no 2. A classic.

1936 MMC Journal

In the old days the MMC used to produce a Annual Journal . This was an amazing read like the one I have been given. It was written after a visit by mountaineer Noel Odell to speak to Moray Mountaineering Club.

Noel Odell was the last person to see Mallory on Irvine on Everest before they disappeared in June 1924.

“On 8 June, expedition member Noel Odell was moving up behind the pair in a “support role”. Around 26,000 ft (7,925 m), he spotted the two climbing a prominent rock step, either the First or Second Step, about 13:00, although Odell might, conceivably, have been viewing the higher, then-unknown, “Third Step”.[27] Odell later reported:

At 12.50, just after I had emerged from a state of jubilation at finding the first definite fossils on Everest, there was a sudden clearing of the atmosphere, and the entire summit ridge and final peak of Everest were unveiled. My eyes became fixed on one tiny black spot silhouetted on a small snow crest beneath a rock step in the ridge; the black spot moved. Another black spot became apparent and moved up the snow to join the other on the crest. The first then approached the great rock step and shortly emerged at the top; the second did likewise. Then the whole fascinating vision vanished, enveloped in cloud once more.”

Odell spoke to the club at a lecture and later climbed Braeraich with the President and other members.

I would love to read any other Journals who in the club holds them just now. They are on the website and a few including this copy has been copied and put on the websIte for the Moray Mountain club.

This journal was dropped of today by a kind member of the Inverness Mountaineering Club. There is a so much info on these early days: what great days rock climbing on Beinn Tarsuinn in Fisherfield – a train meet to the hill to Garve,Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis our local climbs in Coire Ant Sneachda including early ascents of Alladins Buttress and Aladdin’s Corridor “now called Aladdin’s Couloir.

The first ascent of the winter climb The Vent in Coire an Lochan – A Traverse of the full An Teallach ridge many local wanders, climbing our local Corbett’s including a midnight ascent of Ben Rinnes on the longest day and of course Cummingston and Covesea climbing.

There was so much exploratory climbing going on. There is an article on Photography,hill mammals, poetry and these great words:


This wretched club

It is a pest

It lures me from my Sunday Rest.

To flounder over bogs and heather

And climb high hills in any weather

To rise at all unearthly hours.

And show my best resistance powers.

By scrambling over rock and boulder.

To some elusive spur or shoulder

With promise of a view

A view alas, which oft as nought

Resolves itself into a blot.

Of mist and rain:

I have just found out that this Journal and others is on the MMC website. Many thanks for the great work by Andy Lawson and Dan Moysey.

About heavywhalley.MBE

Mountain Rescue Specialist. Environmentalist. Spent 37 years with RAF Mountain Rescue and 3 years with a civilian Team . Still an active Mountaineer and loves the wild places.
This entry was posted in Articles, History, Mountaineering, People, Recomended books and Guides, Rock Climbing, Scottish winter climbing., Views Mountaineering, Well being. Bookmark the permalink.

1 Response to Moray Mountaineering Club Journal Vol 1 no 2. A classic.

  1. Fascinating. I love any early mountaineering writings. Please have a read of my blog. It’s only lighthearted but we would love any feedback 🐾🐾👍

    Liked by 1 person

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