From UKC – “This week’s Friday Night Video takes a look at the life of Guy Lacelle, a renowned ice climber who tragically died in an avalanche just over ten years ago. He had made groundbreaking ascents from the Rockies to the Alps and was also a talented competition climber.
This film is told from the perspective of some of the best ice climbers in the world and archive footage to show the influence that Guy had on the sport.”
On our first trip to Canada in winter if 1984 we met Guy Lacelle on of the most incredible ice climbers I have ever met. We met in the Alpine Club in Canmore where we were staying on our week winter trip.
He was even in 1984 a pretty famous ice climber. On that trip we met many but Guy took to us I doubt he had met anyone like us before and gave us lots of advice on routes to climb. In these days there were not so many climbing in winter on Canada. The guidebook was pretty sparse and vague unlike today. Yet it was the trip of a lifetime.
We climbed hard and socialised even harder climbing 5 days a week and partying at the weekends. Guy was amazed by our small group and even climbed a new route “Sacre Blue” with Malcolm
at the end of our trip.
These were incredible days of simple ice climbing gear. We had Zero axes and Tom had a pair of Chacals and new foot-fangs. We had and Canada was so quiet you rarely met another climber on the routes.
Guy gave us so much local knowledge advised us on routes and took us to places that were unknown then. In these early days he soloed everything we could climb. He was so natural on ice yet laughed especially at my attempts on routes. Climbing then was fun, it was only part of the game. It was those who you met along the way.
We met so many of the names on that trip but Guy was some man. He became to many one of the worlds finest ice climbers yet as a man he was a lovely human being.
I laugh when I think back to his words “I thought all Scottish climbers could climb till I met you! “
His words never taken to hurt just to laugh at and with.