A Classic Climb Greag Dubh Wall – Tremadoc North Wales.

I located a photo with great memories of my time in North Wales. I loved climbing there and we often went to Tremadoc which seemed to hold the good weather.

It was also a roadside crag( no long Scottish walks – ins ) and a local climber Eric Jones at that time ran the cafe that was a haven for climbers. Eric is a Welsh legend a world class mountaineer, loved by all.

He would sometimes carry out rescues on the cliff many on his own where he was famous for soling most routes. He always looked after us and was invited to a First Aid course with the team. As always Eric was great company. We even gave him a stretcher at one point ( from Valley) to help save his sofa getting ruined from injured climbers awaiting an ambulance.

In the 70’s and 80’s many top climbers climbed here. It was at one time a “who’s who” of climbing. We went often to the cliffs and were never disappointed. A special thanks to Pete, Jock and Dave Tomkins for some grand memories.

If your in Wales is a must do as it was climbed by some famous Scottish climbers.

I have never climbed hard in my time but did many of the classics on this beautiful cliff. It was a place to enjoy and at that time being able to come down for a brew was a big part of the craic. My favourite route was the Classic Creag Dhu climbed by the members of that incredible group of Scottish climbers on a visit to Wales in 1951. I was lucky to climb it 3 times what a great route and to a man who missed Scotland so much it was always a joy to climb here. Especially the short walk ins ! Creag Dubh Wall Craig y Castel. Tremadog North Wales. How lucky was I to climb this classic 5 times .

First ascent – J Cunningham, W Smith, P Vaughan. July 1951

Rockfax Description
The route of the crag, great climbing up a big bulky buttress on lovely rock. .
1) 4b, 32m. Climb the groove that leads to the overhangs and continue up until it gets too difficult. Then make a move round the rib on the right to a delicate foot-traverse right to a groove and soon, a large ledge and big fat tree belay. The direct line without the detour is Creagh Dhu Wall Direct, VS.
2) 4b, 30m. Drop down and hand-traverse the huge flake out left then climb the face to a small ledge (possible stance on One Step.). Step up and make hard moves into the polished slanting groove. Finish either side of the roof above this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A wonderful route. Head up and right to large ledge (belay). Then fabulously exposed 2nd pitch goes out left along the huge flake. Head up obvious line above, good holds. Tricky crux, entering the groove near top. 3 stars.

Ticklists

Careful rope work required to avoid rope drag.

The diagram from Classic Rock a great book by Ken Wilson – the essay by Jim Perrin on the route.
Al Wildman on the Slab Pitch of Main Wall (465ft HS), Cyrn Las

Main Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))

Comments as always welcome.

About heavywhalley.MBE

Mountain Rescue Specialist. Environmentalist. Spent 37 years with RAF Mountain Rescue and 3 years with a civilian Team . Still an active Mountaineer when body slows, loves the wild places.
This entry was posted in Articles, Books, Friends, Gear, Mountain rescue, Mountaineering, Recomended books and Guides, Views Mountaineering, Well being. Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to A Classic Climb Greag Dubh Wall – Tremadoc North Wales.

  1. Pete Kay says:

    Great days Hevs, we kicked the ass out of those classics. Summer course trade routes. Stay safe fella.

    Liked by 2 people

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