Objective Dangers.

This is a great time of year with some magical weather as a high has lead to great weather. Just be careful as with the increased daylight and sun comes danger of thawing ice, rockfall and Cornice collapse.

Cornice collapse in the Cairngorms .

A good idea is to be away early in the morning and get the route done before the sun is up. It’s a bit like climbing in the Alps you want to be away from danger areas before the sun is up fully at midday.

Coire an Lochan cairngorms

Try to look at dangerous areas at this time of year like South facing climbs a no go when a thaw is on. Some places like Hells Lum in Cairngorms are well known for falling ice in late season. Read the guide books ask about local areas . The routes in Coire An – Sneachda are prone to rockfall especially near Red Gully as the sun loosens the rock and ice. There have been a few accidents over the years in this popular area.

At Bealeach na Ba

My mate Jimmy bouldering no helmet and the chance of getting hit by a car!

Canada mixed climbing.

Beware ice daggers above !


Be aware of falling rock as the sun hits in warm weather. Early start as on the Alps out of the sun, safe climbing.

About heavywhalley.MBE

Mountain Rescue Specialist. Environmentalist. Spent 37 years with RAF Mountain Rescue and 3 years with a civilian Team . Still an active Mountaineer when body slows, loves the wild places.
This entry was posted in Enviroment, Mountain rescue, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Scottish winter climbing., Views Mountaineering, Weather. Bookmark the permalink.

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