The Moray coast is a special place and it’s great to revisit wonderful places. The Moray Way after Hopeman has some incredible coves and beaches to visit. Primrose Bay is one you follow the Moray Way past Hopeman and the Golf Course. You descend down to one of the loveliest Coves around. It has a lovely beach and wonderful sandstone cliffs. It is the ideal place for a picnic and to watch the famous Dolphins.
When I joined Kinloss Mountain Rescue I climbed at bit at locally at Primrose Bay near Hopeman. I played and climbed here as a wee boy, where the caves and cliffs were our learning playground. Looking back I see this place great place with a climbers eye and Many years ago so much fun here. We practiced aid climbing here on pre placed bolts some that you can see the remains off. Nowadays it has great bouldering on the sandstone with no one about. I am lucky it is great to have such a place on the doorstep just a bit away from the crowds at Cummingston. Aid Climbing :Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which standing on or pulling oneself up via devices
I visited yesterday and we never saw any Dolphins. When it’s wet you can sit the cave between the showers listening to the noise of the stones speaking in ongoing tide. It is a grand place to be in a wild day with the waves crashing off the cliffs, outstanding views across to the Moray Firth in the distance. Yesterday there was an oil rig being towed across the Firth heading out to sea by a small tug, the Moray Firth is a busy place to be.
From UKC “The sandstone ranges from damp, to dry but explosively soft, to pristine and permanently dry. Aid climbing stopped here in the early 70’s when it was realised what damage it was causing to the rock.
Beach level is varied which impacts the landings in the stacks areas. As usual please refrain from climbing on wet sandstone as it is prone to breaking.
As you descend to the bay, the stacks are on the left end of the beach and the throughhole cave, etc are at the right end.
There is one traditional climb on the cliff an E3 but we used to climb a few easy routes on the slab above the cave. This is where I did early rock climbing leads and abseils above the slab. It is fairly overgrown now.
The late John Hinde took us there on our first outing in 1972 along with my pal Tom MacDonalds who sadly is also not with us now.
Yet I have great memories of this area rock climbing swimming and to pop down two days ago was wonderful. It was so warm and sunny and no one about.