1972 – My last weekend of my trial – Avalanche Sgur Lurtharn Aonach Beag near Ben Alder that we were lucky to survive.

This as I stated was the last weekend of the trial and I was to go out with George Bruce the Team leader and 2 other team members. George had planned a winter scramble or climb up a magnificent ridge called Lancet Edge near Culra bothy right in the heart of the Alder Estate.

Lancet Edge

It was a wonderful drive across the moor, full of snow and a drive across the icy river Pattock by land rover. We passed the Garrons (highland ponies) there were stags and hinds everywhere, many following the wagon thinking that they may have been getting fed. I thought to myself people would pay a fortune to be in this landscape and it was all for free, wonderful. The Estate feeds the deer especially in a hard winter and this was one? The views of the mountains was incredible, snow everywhere and blue sky, these are huge remote mountains with the magnificent Ben Alder dwarfing its lofty neighbours with its sprawling ridges and huge corries. We stopped at the Culra bothy an open shelter used by climbers and left the wagon there. It is a very basic building with a fire, stone floor, sleeping space and freezing cold.  I had spent many a night in bothies like these in Galloway whilst training for the Duke of Edinburgh award but this was a different league.

Our objective was Lancet Edge which was opposite Ben Alder this was a ridge on the huge 1028 Sgur Lurtharn, it looked so Alpine and impressive. A thin icy ridge running up to a snowy plateau to my inexperienced mountaineering mind I wondered how we would get up that ridge. We had with us a very experienced climber who had worked at Glenmore Lodge as a civilian Instructor who was one of George’s friends Davy Sharp. Davy I found out on the walk up across the moor was just recovering from a serious avalanche accident in the Lake District the previous winter. George was great form in the walk. He was telling stories, talking about the area and setting an enjoyable pace, not the usual rush to the top. He was teaching and laughing all the time and in the hour on the walk in we learned many new skills. I was shown how to use my axe and crampons on some ice on a small buttress and how to ice axe brake properly on some steep snow, we then set of kicking steps up the slope leading to ridge. As is the normal procedure we all took our place in front kicking in the snow was hard work. As we got higher, the snow became deeper and was lying in places in drifts on top of steep frozen grass. I know now that this is not a good combination. We traversed round some steep buttress and marvelled at the views which opened out as we got higher. Just below the top of the ridge I was just behind George when I heard a crack and then we were tumbling down the hill, I remember going over a crag and then tumbling and crashing over rocks. It all went quiet when we eventually stopped and I was partially buried by snow and could hardly move my legs. George was next to me and helped me get out; I had swallowed lots of fine particles snow and was coughing fairly badly. I could hear Dave groaning and George was helping him out as the snow had by now frozen, he was like us all very badly shaken and bruised.ered but the adrenalin kicked in and helped Dave up. George got on the radio and asked for assistance from other team hill parties as we feared that Dave would not be able to walk off. We gathered our equipment that was scattered all over and started back, helping with Dave’s bag. George though shaken was completely in control and explained that we had been avalanched and in his usual sense of humour said this was very rare in Scotland and a great honour to be avalanched in such experienced company!


What a man he was, his humour was just what we needed and I was to learn so much from this great man, throughout my Mountain Rescue Career and throughout life.   We managed to get back to the wagon by now Dave could hardly walk and was taken to hospital for a check-up. George reckoned that we had fallen over 600 feet some of it over a steep cliff, we were very lucky that no one was killed. I had used up one of my mountaineering lives!

When we got back to the Base Camp at Ben Alder we spoke to the keeper George who in his own measured way said “aye I thought the hill was pretty dangerous after the heavy snow and that wind” You were very lucky and offered us a dram. Later I stiffened up and bruising came out on my back and legs but next day I was back on the hill. I was the only one out of the avalanche who went out next day.  As George said when you fall of you have to get back on straight away.

Next day I had a wonderful day on Ben Alder climbing it by an amazing ridge the Short Leachas a great winter scramble, what a day.  The plateau to the summit was incredible with huge cornices by now the weather had changed and it was difficult navigation to the summit. I marvelled at the team navigating in a full white out, over this complex plateau, with its huge cornices overhanging the cliffs. Near the summit we heard a huge crash as a cornice tumbled down into the corrie. I was really tired on the way off which was complex as the wind was in our faces and the slopes very steep, this was serious mountaineering. Getting back to the land rover I was exhausted but again happy and the river crossing in the wagon was serious as there was a big thaw on.

When we arrived back at the Lodge Mr Oswald the keeper said that we were lucky to get the land rover over the river as it could have been there for the whole winter! 

This is roughly where we were avalanched

George had a wee word as we packed up he said, you have passed your trail wee man, you are now a Novice team member. He said that you showed them but do not let it go to your head, it is a long way to go and you are just starting, take no hassle from anyone, stand up for yourself and learn every time you go on the hill.

My mountaineering apprenticeship had started what a three weekends I had had. What adventures already? I had so much to learn, I could not wait for the next weekend.

I had to visit the Medical Centre as my body was fairly bruised after the avalanche. I had huge bruises on my body.  I had a sore chest and was coughing a lot and got x-rayed. I was told that I had swallowed a lot snow and will have damage that may be permanent later on in night. As a young man I never thought about this but developed a cough which has stayed with me to this day.

My job still involved lots of lifting rations into storage; there were no lifting devices it was all done by hand. Every day we delivered to the Messes and huge wagons would come in from the contractors we would move them into our store, it sometimes took all day. By next day I could hardly move and after being checked again by the doctor, he gave me a few days off, which I did not take and just went back to work. I had bruised my ribs as well as my back which took ages to heal; he also confirmed that I had swallowed a lot of snow as I was coughing a lot. I dare not risk any problems with the team as my work were not happy with me being on it already.

There would be many problems ahead with work I felt, but I tried so hard always offering and working late and doing extra work when people went sick to help me with getting out with the team. My work was so worried about me getting time off for call outs during the week. In fact there were very few most of the 10 -15 incidents were at weekends in my own time or at Christmas and New Year when the team was out training. Anyway I was told I had to learn my job first, which I felt was no problem as to me a monkey could do it, it was a “game” and I had to play it and keep them happy. It was hard to accept but it was to be with me for most of my early RAF Career as work and Mountain Rescue collided.

Now I was accepted with the team I was told I had to move into the Mountain Rescue Block. This was our own Block on the Operation side of the camp. We were exempt some of the inspections as we ran a duty crew each night which we did as a means of calling the team at night. It was all by phone in these days and the Rescue Coordination Centre called us out. The block was a special place full of tradition and unique in many ways. Very few people visited without an invitation and it was full of fun. It had a crew room where we all watched the television and had the occasional party. It also had a very simple drying room which was so important for drying your kit after the weekend and a washing machine, we had to clean our gear.

Trial passed – the journey had just started.

There was no Avalanche service in 1972 it was a common thought by a few that avalanches did not happen in Scotland

About heavywhalley.MBE

Mountain Rescue Specialist. Environmentalist. Spent 37 years with RAF Mountain Rescue and 3 years with a civilian Team . Still an active Mountaineer when body slows, loves the wild places.
This entry was posted in Avalanche info, Bothies, Enviroment, Mountain rescue, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Munros, Views Mountaineering, Weather, Well being, Wildlife. Bookmark the permalink.

1 Response to 1972 – My last weekend of my trial – Avalanche Sgur Lurtharn Aonach Beag near Ben Alder that we were lucky to survive.

  1. Hammy Anderson says:

    I was avalanched 3 times. Twice at Kinloss and once at Leeming

    Liked by 1 person

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