Category Archives: Articles

Glovers Chimney – Ben Nevis.

Posted on January 26, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

Classic Scottish winter climbing – Glovers Chimney Ben Nevis photo Mark Hartree First ascent winter 1935 by G.C McPhee and party. My first introduction to this classic route was on my first ascent of Tower Ridge in the early 70’s … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Friends, Gear, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Recomended books and Guides, Scottish winter climbing., SMC/SMT | Leave a comment

Out of the wind on Ben Nevis – Right hand gully Moonlight Gully Buttress. Waterfall Gully, The Curtain, Douglas Boulder Tower Scoop etc.

Posted on January 24, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

The weather on Ben Nevis can be fickle and when we ran our annual winter course we were often met by high winds. When the big routes were out due to weather we usually managed to get a route lower … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Mountain rescue, mountain safety, Mountaineering, People, Recomended books and Guides, Scottish winter climbing., Views Mountaineering, Well being | Leave a comment

My mate Tom Mac Donald RIP.

Posted on January 20, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

Tom MacDonald I have the just had the sad news of my pal Tom MacDonald died on Thursday at his home in Dundee. I have no other news as yet. It was a huge shock as I thought the man … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Avalanche info, Bothies, Corbetts and other hills, Family, Flora, Friends, Ice climbing Canada, Mountain rescue, Mountaineering, Munros, People, Plants, Rock Climbing, Scottish winter climbing., Views Mountaineering, Well being, Wildlife | 8 Comments

Point Five Gully Ben Nevis. A few takes from 1959 on wards.

Posted on January 15, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

1959 – 16 Jan 1959 J.M.Alexander, I.S Clough, D. Pipes, R.Shaw. To many on Ben Nevis Point Five Gully is perhaps the most famous gully in Scotland, and one of the world’s most sought-after winter climbs. Its first ascent, led … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Books, Mountaineering, Recomended books and Guides, Scottish winter climbing., SMC/SMT | Leave a comment

Kinloss Mountain Rescue Team Routes on Ben Nevis in winter. Ian Clough and others.

Posted on January 14, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

In the 50’s when National Service was mandatory a few climbers were posted to RAF Kinloss in the UK the Mountain Rescue Team in Morayshire in the North of Scotland. As the team trained most weekends at various Base Camps … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Equipment, Friends, Gear, Mountain rescue, Mountaineering, People, Recomended books and Guides, Rock Climbing, Scottish winter climbing., SMC/SMT, Views Mountaineering | Leave a comment

Munro Facts – thanks to Anne Butler

Posted on January 13, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

A big thanks to the “Munro Queen” Anne Butler. At the end of 2021 there were 7096 Munroists on the Scottish Mountaineering Club ‘List of Compleators’. Of those 7096 people:9.7% have also completed the Munro Tops10.5% have completed the Corbetts9.4% … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Mountaineering, Munros, People, SMC/SMT, Views Mountaineering | Leave a comment

Last days on Everest. A personal journey.

Posted on January 11, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

In 2001 I was lucky to be part of an Everest Expedition from Tibet. It was made up of purely RAF Mountain Rescue Troops and the Team Doctor. It was a great expedition in all aspects with Dan Carrol and … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Expeditions - Alaska - Himalayas etc, Himalayas/ Everest, Mountain rescue, Mountaineering, People, Views Mountaineering, Well being | 7 Comments

Thanks to John Harper of The Braeraich for all those years of looking after us in Newtonmore . RIP John

Posted on January 11, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

This wee blog is read by many ex RAF Troops all over the World . I use it to pass news good and bad on to others many who live away from Facebook. I picked this up from Joanne through … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Bothies, Family, Friends, Local area and events to see, mountain safety, People, Views Mountaineering, Well being | 6 Comments

Cracking books and ideas for climbing the hills. “Scotlands Mountain Ridges.” Dan Bailey and that old favourite the SMC District Guides.

Posted on January 9, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

This is great guidebook with a mix of summer scrambling, rock climbing and winter mountaineering on Scotland’s ridges, from the remote Cairngorms to the splendour of the Cuillin. Graceful carved walkways slung between summits, twisted spines of stone – ridges … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Books, Equipment, Friends, Mountain rescue, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Munros, People, Recomended books and Guides, Rock Climbing, Scottish winter climbing., Views Mountaineering, Well being | Leave a comment

Tricky winter hills – Beinn a Chaorainn.

Posted on January 9, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

I was speaking to a winter mountaineer the other day about Beinn a Chaorainn. A Munro on the Laggan road that is often combined with Beinn Teallach. He was unaware that on poor conditions Beinn a Chaorainn can be a … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Avalanche info, Books, Family, Mountain rescue, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Recomended books and Guides, Scottish winter climbing., SMC/SMT, Views Mountaineering, Weather, Well being | Leave a comment