Category Archives: Ice climbing Canada

What’s was your breakthrough Crampon’s?

Posted on March 8, 2023 by heavywhalley.MBE

I was given a pair of crampons that never fitted my boots when I started winter climbing in1972. The crampons were heated and adjust to the boots. Mine had been heated and reheated a few times and one broke on … Continue reading →

Posted in Gear, Ice climbing Canada, Mountaineering, People, Scottish winter climbing. | 4 Comments

A wild day on Resurrection Sgurr Mor – The Fannichs a long time ago but the memories are still there.

Posted on February 13, 2023 by heavywhalley.MBE

Many years ago in 1984 after I had just come back from a wonderful month ice climbing in Canada. I was with my mate Mark Sinclair “ Cheeky” he invited me out on what he said was a “wee route … Continue reading →

Posted in Ice climbing Canada, Mountaineering, Scottish winter climbing., SMC/SMT, Views Mountaineering, Well being | 2 Comments

A breakthrough booklet in its day. Modern Snow & Ice Techniques by Bill March printed 1973 ! What route is on the front cover?

Posted on September 15, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

An old pal dropped some books of for me the wee booklet was one of them it brought back many memories. Some of them like the french names Piolet Canne and Piolet Ramp for using the axe are still baffling … Continue reading →

Posted in Ice climbing Canada, Mountaineering, Recomended books and Guides, Scottish winter climbing., Views Mountaineering | 7 Comments

Interesting belays? Always back them up!

Posted on August 30, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

This belay was on Wreckers Slab (description below) There was a few original pegs from the first ascent which I clipped for the photo of course it was backed up. Description One of the longest, most alluring and serious VS … Continue reading →

Posted in Equipment, Ice climbing Canada, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Views Mountaineering | 2 Comments

Early days attempts on Point 5 Ben Nevis – A great line from the Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal May 1959.

Posted on February 24, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

Point 5 Ben Nevis. Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Enviroment, Ice climbing Canada, Mountain rescue, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Recomended books and Guides, Scottish winter climbing., SMC/SMT, Weather, Well being | Leave a comment

Crampons – some thoughts.

Posted on February 23, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

My first time in crampons was in Feb 1972 it was on a remote Munro from Iron Lodge near Kintail. Mullach na Dheregain . I was with another team member from Kinloss he was supposed to be looking after me … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Friends, Gear, Ice climbing Canada, Mountain rescue, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Munros, Scottish winter climbing., Views Mountaineering | 5 Comments

Canada Ice – wooden axes, crampons, basic ice screws and Big B–ls – in memory of Tom MacDonald, Mark Sinclair and Guy Lacelle.

Posted on January 30, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

I have so many wonderful memories of Canada and the Rockies from my early trip in 1983 when few from the UKwere aware of this Mecca of ice. At that time there were under 100 ice climbs there. My great … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Friends, Gear, Ice climbing Canada, Mountaineering, People, Scottish winter climbing., SMC/SMT, Weather, Well being, Wildlife | Leave a comment

My mate Tom Mac Donald RIP.

Posted on January 20, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

Tom MacDonald I have the just had the sad news of my pal Tom MacDonald died on Thursday at his home in Dundee. I have no other news as yet. It was a huge shock as I thought the man … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Avalanche info, Bothies, Corbetts and other hills, Family, Flora, Friends, Ice climbing Canada, Mountain rescue, Mountaineering, Munros, People, Plants, Rock Climbing, Scottish winter climbing., Views Mountaineering, Well being, Wildlife | 8 Comments

What’s your best Winter climb for the Mid range winter climber? A few of mine – Tower Ridge, Hadrian’s Wall, Comb and Green Gully plus many more.

Posted on January 6, 2022 by heavywhalley.MBE

After looking at The Classic Cold Climbs my mind was taken back to favourite winter climbs. To me it was about my companions and the day. I was so lucky to have climbed many routes before the crowds came in … Continue reading →

Posted in Articles, Books, Ice climbing Canada, Mountain rescue, mountain safety, Mountaineering, Recomended books and Guides, Scottish winter climbing., SMC/SMT, Views Mountaineering, Weather, Well being | Leave a comment

1965’s Scottish Climbing School Glencoe . Some names here . Dougal Haston, John Harlin, Tom Patey. Ely Moriarty, John Cunningham Rusty Ballie .

Posted on July 8, 2021 by heavywhalley.MBE

Could you imagine being taught by these climbers in 1965 ? Think of all the news routes they would have climbed. They were the some of the cream of Scottish climbing of that era . I wonder if anyone remembers … Continue reading →

Posted in Books, History, Ice climbing Canada, Mountaineering, People, Recomended books and Guides, Scottish winter climbing., Views Mountaineering, Well being | 4 Comments