Lancaster Crash Beinn Eighe 1951 – continued!

After a difficult time and reaching the Corrie on Beinn Eighe the RAF Kinloss Team returned to Kinloss. The team must have felt very upset that they had failed to reach the main wreckage just below the summit.  Joss who was on this incident in 1951 said it was very difficult going back to Kinloss without finding the crew. Many of the team knew the aircrew and he still feels this part of the tragedy. The problem was the “Ugly step” on the Sail Mor Ridge. The western end of the ridge sees an obstacle called the ‘ugly step’. This is a rock step on the western end of the plateau like summit, Coinneach Mhor (976m). The rock step drops down to the ridge leading to Sail Mhor.  On the 30 March – 5 April. The  wreckage was reached and 4 bodies recovered. To achieve this the team reached the summit by the “Ugly step” a steep step on the ridge, which is about grade 1/11 and in the conditions and the equipment available was a difficult obstacle. Most of the wreckage was here as the main impact point was 15 metres from the summit. Joss explained that this was pretty difficult especially with the kit and experience they had at the time. During the period before this the wreckage was reached by Mike Banks (a world-class mountaineer) and a serving Royal Marine Officer and a friend, who told the Police that all they had found one of the crew dead near the ridge. He also advised all non mountaineers to keep away as the weather was wild, he was blown over several times. Mike wrote his account in his book Commando climber which he criticised the RAF, their leadership and the Mountain Rescue Team. Joss was still upset by the comments as he and the team were trying their hardest in appalling conditions. With hindsight much what Mike Banks said was true and later on many of his points were used to modernise the RAF Mountain Rescue Service.  The climb even today is an interesting way up the mountain needing crampons and axes in winter conditions. The photo below shows the step and we are using a rope as I had broken a crampon at the time of this photo.

The “Ugly step” winter 2007 – a tricky place! With two axes and crampons in 1951 with one axe and bendy boots – see next photo!

The local Moray Mountaineering Club also offered assistance at the time but the RAF and the Police agreed that conditions were too serious to accept any help. The RAF team were under pressure and the papers were full of stories. Joss remembers this time well but says that the team all had ice axes but the very minimal kit, equipment and  experience.

Commando Climber by John Banks an interesting book which has a piece on the Beinn Eighe Tragedy.

The pressure was on Joss and the team and it must have been a harrowing task recovering the casualties during this period. Joss was a caver and had a bit of  mountaineering experience and though he will not say it he was a key man on the recovery. He still feels that though the team was heavily criticised they had a harrowing job which many forget.

Have a thought about this epic and look at the equipment the team were using on Beinn Eighe in 1951. Photo Joss Gosling collection.

When Joss spoke of this time at the chat on Saturday he was still upset with the memories all these years on. These were not unknown climbers they were recovering from the snow. They were fellow members of the RAF many whom team member’s knew personally. Some of the casualties were taken down into Coire Dubh Mor a very steep descent, in winter which Joss seems to think was fairly simple! He said gravity did its bit to help with the descent, which was done using sisal ropes. There was not enough time to get the bodies of the hill on their own and local keepers and gillies helped with ponies when they reached glen.  Joss said this was a great help to the RAF lads who were exhausted after a busy few days.  This was the start of locals helping officially with rescues and led to the formation of the Torridon and Kinlochewe Mountain Rescue Team. Local knowledge and experience is the foundation of a strong rescue team. This tragedy a least had big part in the formation of this Mountain Rescue Team.

This photo was taken by Joss Gosling in March 1951 and shows the “Ugly step” on the Sail Mor Ridge.The western end of the ridge sees an obstacle called the ‘ugly step’. This is a rock step on the western end of the plateau like summit, Coinneach Mhor (976m). The rock step drops down to the ridge leading to Sail Mhor. Can you spot the climber? Photo Joss Gosling collection.

The team had recovered 4 fatalities but there was so much snow that it was too difficult to find the rest of the crew. The team returned to RAF Kinloss hoping to await a big thaw!  To be continued.