Been a busy few days helped by the weather walking but back hurting a lot but to be outside is magnificent. Missing the wee van but I was not up to driving my decision but saves folk worrying. Keeps folk safe and that is the main thing.
Beinn Eighe
I get changes every day in my body and repeatedly telling a doctor the same story is exhausting. I am lucky though great help from so many. It’s sad to see that others are not so lucky struggling on your own cannot be easy. My head is full of things to sort but I am getting there.My climbing gear was sold by the Moray Mountaineering Club and I have raised £600 for SARDA Scotland that pleases me. It gives me a warm feeling to be able to help.
Every day is similar and I must locate my bus pass Kalie my friend wants me to go over West and stay once I get my medical appointments sorted I will to sort it out.
I have read a brilliant piece by my friend Adrian Trednall who has written a great piece on the Climbers Huts built at Loch Coruisk. It’s an account from Ben Humbles book on Skye written years ago. I tried to find the site many years ago Adrian has traced them and gives a great account in his All things Cuillin face book page. You learn every day!
Not a great week the other week I have been feeling weak and exhausted no energy days in bed and no walks!
The mind is so complicated coping and trying to stay upbeat is a daily battle. Losing your powers even slowly is extremely hard to cope with.
I have great help about and could not cope without them. Simple jobs are now out. My friend Dianne is a daily help and makes life easier.
I have no strength at all rely on help with lifting. Concentration is so hard. This is why I can have only a few chats and better in the morning.
I feel a bit better this week managed few walks in the better days. I struggled accepting the loss of concentration my hands will not let me write they shake a lot.
This is why I ask Please don’t call as my balance and concentration is very poor and I need a rest even a short visit to recover.
The strength loss and other things I have lost is hard to accept but that’s life. I get constant pain in my back even after a short walk.
Walking however short is my go to place. To see the sea, the beach the forest.
Seeing the flowers and noticing the smells. I took so much for granted,it’s great to get another chance to see what missed.
I am still receiving so many cards and messages they mean a lot
Thank you all.
Please accept that I have not the strength to go through my medical problems again and again on the phone . I say I have Stage 4 liver disease and Copd (magor respiratory problems) I have 6 months to 9 months as it’s terminal.
Life is full of up’s and downs.
We all have to cope as we can.
This week I should have been with Kalie in Harris then loch Coruisk in Skye.
Bonny beaches and light Photo: K. Wilkinson
She has sent wonderful photos of the beaches where we had a few wonderful times in the past. How lucky was I . The Island beaches, the big skies, limited folk its heartwarming. Kalie is now in the wee hut at loch Coruisk with Adrian Bridgette and pals. She loves Coruisk like me a place of intense beauty and well worth a visit.
Memories keep me going as does folks kindness. Getting a few more walks in plenty of rest to see what is going on feeling a bit warmer is a great feeling. I try to keep going never easy but life is not a times easy
Skye and the mountain of memories. Photo K. Wilkinson
My illness is Stage 4 liver disease and serious respiratory proplems. There is nothing that can be done. I have got used to it having no energy etc. Last,weeks rain was pretty constant and met I rarely got out. This is soo hard to accept as the fresh air in a great solace for me.i had to spend two days in bed This knocked me for 6
I still find it hard to be asked what’s up with me.So many questions so few answers. My voice is weak and can,t chat for long. This is why I do not want many visitors. I have to protect myself and my voice Its hard to live with but that’s life.
I got one day out a bit of sun and see Yvette and Kalie this week and they have been a-good help so much to sort out. Kalie is off to Harris lots of great memories there. We also visited the undertaker he was a big help,thanks Dan Ralph. These things have to be done and though hard worth it.
On the bright slide the weather should be better. It was hard to sell my mountain bike ( electric) I had only used it twice I could hardly lift it now. It’s gone to good home. A good friend will get great joy out it. Great to see the flowers are out that cheers me up.
I had a surprise visitor Pete from Cornwall he is up working with SAR helicopters at Inverness. I have managed a few short walks as the weather is better. This helps so much and the warmth of the sun brings me much joy.i will feel a bit better just had a visit from the Respiratory physio lots of advice to follow. I went for a wander not far Cummingston to Hopeman about 3 miles in total, just be for the exercise. Pete came I felt wobbly on the wee hill before the campsite had a break and took my arm for 5 min we made it to his cabin. We had soup and a brew I felt better and managed to walk back to Cummingston. I was shattered and how weak I felt.
◦ I had a great day on this clip mb with my pal Pete Greening he lives in Cornwall and we spoke about great days climbing history has always enthralled me especially involving Tom Patey. He arranged a days out for me when I was with my granddaughters in Cornwall. Lexi was very young and enthralled by us packing our gear she was also worried. It shows how selfish we can be.
◦ Tom Patey during the late 50,s was at this time he was seconded to the Marines as a doctor in Cornwall.
◦ He enjoyed many of the wonderful sea cliff granite climbing that the area is famous for.opening a few routes with local climbers in the Late 50. This route though it has a reputation for loose rock and grass is a classic it scares a lot of leaders away yet I loved it.
Grassy but fun
◦ Wreckers Slab The route
◦ 115m, 3 pitches.
◦ Classic Patey Vs 4b
◦ Rockfax Description: One of the longest, most alluring and serious VS climbs in the West Country, Wrecker’s Slab is nevertheless the most attempted of its genre on the coast.
◦ The huge, slim slab rising from the beach on the far right-hand side of the cliff has very little in the way of technical difficulty but should not be underestimated as the rock is poor, protection spaced and the situations serious.
◦ Start at the base of the slab just right of the overhangs. 1) 4a, 35m. Make a couple of tricky moves to easier ground and work out leftwards along an easy-angled section of slab to the arete. Climb a loose corner groove just right of the arete to a good peg and then move up and right on more loose rock to a foot ledge stance and peg belays plus good nut belays 5m above. 2) 4b, 45m. Climb directly to the overlaps and pull through them onto the slab above. Ascend the slab to a belay at a pillar on a grass terrace. 3) 4a, 45m. Climb up past the pillar to the easy-angled upper wall and follow this on its left side to the top of the slab and belay
◦ UKC Logbook Description An amazing cliff, one of the best adventureous routes in the country. Make it a must to climb, what a fantastic day out. Oh and make sure you don’t throw all the hand holds down to your belayer.
◦ T. Patey, J Deacon. K Lawder 1959.
On arriving at the climb an airy scramble I was looking up from the beach the climb looked intimidating. Loose a grassy with loose holds I got use to it though it made you think. Pete was in his element and looking after me. It’s a climb that will stay with me great companion looked after me and despite his van alarms going made it a great-day. Thank you Pete.
The weather has been awful yet I managed a few days where the sun came out I got out for a walk. By how I needed it helps so much for me with my mental health. This is so important to me, I can’t walk far but it’s invigorating. To me the greatest pill is getting out in the fresh air.
Trying to be “positive” it’s easy to say harder to do though. How do you do this. This is not easy you get dark days but a message can help and take you to a happier place.
I find writing helps it makes me think of what is happening. I don’t do it for sympathy but it saves me telling folk where I am at. My writing is full of mistakes due to my hands so please forgive me. The journey can look bleak at times my concentration is poor as is my memory.
Yet the friends help so much and keep me straight. I am learning to accept help that was a hard part for me. Being so independent that made it harder.
So I cannot imagine what is in store for me but I am treating each day as it comes. I have made so many pals over the years and helped a few. They say you get back what you put in. I am getting it every day. The memories are great and this weekend I got a message about climbing on Suilvan a great mount. ai n in the far North West.
lies at the northwest end of this ridge. There are two other summits: Meall Meadhonach (“Middle Round Hill”) at the central point of the ridge is 723 metres (2,372 ft) high, whilst Meall Beag (“Little Round Hill”) lies at the southeastern end.
I was reminded of a day where we had planned a route on the big Western Buttress. It was a long walk in and Joe had dropped one of the ropes. Joe went back to find it and my friend and my dog Teallach had a sleep, poor Joe never found it. So in the end we did the route on one rope. Teallach made his own way up to the summit ridge. Great days.
Then it’s back to reality: I got a delivery of coal and wood dropped of in the lane no notice that they were there. Sadly the coal was in 60 kg sacks way out of me lifting them. It was late when an neighbour told they were there. I tried to decanted some of the coal but had no strength. That is hard to accept.
It’s something you have to get used to a failing body and it will get worse. Any way help is always there and Kalie and Islay visited me that cheered me up. I have Flo for a few days and that good. By mid-afternoon I am very tired sadly I am best in morning
So that’s my latest update sorry for all the mistakes etc.
This is not a sympathy blog but an update on my journey so please accept it as that.
Pakistani overlooking Rakapshi and Diran Pakistani.
Well I hope you forgive me for my poorly written blog! My fingers and hands. That’s life.
They are bit use less at times part of the illness. I also get a brain fog now and again “
My time line is about a year !my liver is Stage 4 and the Respiratory causing big problems but I hope for better.
I have to accept as it life.
Coming to terms is not easy but my head is getting round it.
Medically I have good and bad days. Sometimes you burst into tears feel down but I get over it. Tiredness is always there and not sleeping great is hard but I have tablets that should help now
Folks love and care are incredibly inspiring thank you all.
It’s a dark journey at times your head is spinning but the medical team that assist at this time are incredible. They are all unsung hero’s. It’s hard accepting the help.
I also find it Hard going over my story to them.
I have a. additional banister in house and in shower. The wee house has been looked at by several experts.
I have asked to have my last days in my wee house. Things like” Do not resuscitate “ are on my docs
I had a District nurse visit she will come monthly and I only have to call
As many know my body has been accepted for medical
Science.
I hope to have a wee humanist service in the village hopefully later on.
I cope with the pain but the constant coughing is awful. Wears you out.
Yvette my stepdaughter took me to my Doctors on Fri ( Dr Ferguson) such a caring man and he explained it all to Yvette (not easy for her )
At least I am getting out for walks now the weather is better.
The sea the beach and the forest are wonderful and help so much.
Help is always there great people like Yvette. Kallie , Dianne Kim Dan and Allan Swadel. Are great people as are so many more.
It’s taken time to accept help but worth it. Not easy if you’re as stubborn as me.
Every day is different and there are ups and downs.
Being surrounded by love is so special.
Every day is a learning day I have away my golf gear to the Hopeman Junior’s that was hard as I love my golf.
Thank you all again please appreciate that I have good and bad days and have to limit my visitors please appreciate this.
I hope my honesty helps I do not do it for attention but to try and explain the journey I am on.
Please look after each other tell them you love them. Do not put things of do them.
I miss the hills and can’t drive far long journeys are out . I live in hope take each day as it comes.
“Good days , sad days bad days then the sun comes out”
I hope everyone is having some time with those they love. I was lucky to spend time with my stepdaughter Granddaughters and Flo the dog they made my day. The weather was good with wonderful skies and the break in the weather is so needed.
I am not sleeping great so hopefully that will
Improve soon. I had a lovely visit from my girls and Yvette
Lots going on but will update after Easter.
Again sorry but I need a low key weekend to hopefully update.
Lots of folk want to visit but I hope they understand why .
Enjoy your time with those you love don’t put anything off. Life can change so quick.
Love to you all and your support is immense and appreciated
Most folk will know I am pretty unwell sadly, it’s not a thing many speak about. I am lucky to have great family, friends and those I care for to support. Many are not so lucky. It’s easy to fall into depression and waiting for the “Grim Reaper. Is never easy,
Of course I have dark days and loosing my strength is hard to accept.My balance is poor and my coughing drives me mad.. When I can I get out for short wanders. I have shakey hands and a bit wobbly on my feet.
The pain at times. Is so nagging and sleep is extremely poor. I now have a bannister in the stairs ( makes me laugh) After I fell down the stairs.
This weekend I am being taken to SARDA Scotland. Training and Assessment in Fort William they work so hard to achieve a fair result: I will have to take it easy for the two days I am there. I am sure I will be exhausted after it. It’s an honour to go down.
It’s not all gloom I have given away all my climbing gear and my speaking gear projector,etc. it did give me a good feeling, I have a new electric bike unused too sell.
Life has been great how I miss my hills walking with pals. you have to live every day and get on with life.
Mark Sinclair was one of my best pals. I named him “Cheeky” I took him on the first hill day all the Mamores. He was naturally fit never trained and we formed a great bond on and off the hill.He progressed so quickly pushing the standards especially in winter. He became an extremely good climber pushing it and soloing especially on Ben Nevis including an ascent of physicodelic a wall on Ben Nevis. Yet he took me up many routes with ease and how we laughed. It was in Canada in winter in 1984 he was the driving force. I struggled at the beginning as the ice was so steep.Cheeky took me up so many great routes rebuilt my confidence and that was only one side of him. Socially he was such fun we were also younger and the climbing was only part of a day with him. I was amazed when he went to Alaska with his great pal Neil and then one of the few ascents of the Diamond Coulior in Kenya. He went on to climb,
I have so many great memories of Neil and I miss them day.
In memory of my old friend Mark “Cheeky” Sinclair – he was the one who introduced me to RAF Mountain Rescue in 1985 while we were both aircraft engineering technicians at RAF Lossiemouth; was the first to call me “Desperate Dan”; and he was also an inspiration for my early winter climbing. A very talented and tenacious climber, he loved Scotland’s winter cliffs, climbing hard and putting up many new routes (including one named Desperate Dan in Glen Etive in 1995). He was sadly lost on the unforgiving cliff of Lochnagar in 1995 whilst climbing with his great friend Neil Main. Slàinte Mhath you old rascal 😉
My grandaughter was away on Outdoor Bound at Locheil. She had a great time and sent me a photo of her sitting near the river and enjoying the peace and wildness. It was lovely to see and I hope she grows up loving the these special places.
I also would often stop and look into the Corries watching the wild life and seeing places few venture into. Many on the hill are chasing Munros , climbs or other hills and see little. I was one of them.
Strathfarrara a wild area.
When the weather is good I loved having a wee snooze on the hill the dog would be fast asleep before me. What days we had especially in the summer,
Teallach enjoying the view.
There is a peace and beauty to have a break away from the crowds. These are days that stick in my memories.i have so many can you beat a high camp or bivouac high up waiting for sun rise or a sunset.
LANCASTER GR3 TX264 – CRASH ON SAIL MHOR, BEINN EIGHE ROSS AND CROMARTY, SCOTLAND – 14th March 1951
IN THE MEMORY OF THE CREW OF LANCASTER TX264
Its 73=years since the crash of the Lancaster on Beinn Eighe. I was told of the story often and visited the site on many occasions. It is a situated in the most incredibly wild corrie on Beinn Eighe in the North West of Scotland. It was a huge learning curb for the RAF Mountain Rescue Teams, that involved many changes that influenced most of Mountain Rescue in the UK. For many years I have visited the site spoke to a few of the RAF Kinloss team who were involved. I have taken relatives and family annually, filmed up on the mountain this place means a lot to me. Due to Covid I cannot visit but will when I can and for as long as my battered body allows.
This particular crash had a considerable influence in changes to RAF Mountain Rescue later on.
The crash aroused and held the attention, even curious with that desire to know the true facts, rumours do circulate by ‘word of mouth’ at happenings like this one and for some considerable time. The lines of communication in the early fifties were still a newspaper, local or national, or the ‘Wireless’, very few people had a telephone and Television was in its infancy. ‘News of this kind was news’, where to listen or read would create an ‘image’ in the mind. Headlines in the ‘Press and Journal’, Aberdeen, were – “Search of hills for missing Lancaster, Missing plane sought in Sutherland, Aberdeen. Pilot on missing plane, where the missing bomber crashed, Plane wreck not yet reached.”
It is a sad story as anything of this nature is, particularly for the members of the Rescue Teams but does indicate without doubt ‘special significance’ or ‘emphasis’ on Mountain Rescue, with the extreme difficulties, along with mistakes, these teams faced in that day and age. A detailed description of particular places and local features from Maps had to be the main concern and fully understood.
Beinn Eighe is a name, aggregated, for Peaks similar to each other or bearing a definite relation to the one preceding it. This mountain in winter is one of Scotland’s great peaks and accessible only by mountaineers. The gully where the main wreckage is a loose tricky ascent in summer and should only be attempted by mountaineers.
The following narrative relates the events of the Beinn Eighe crash on the 14th March 1951 until the 27th August, a very harrowing rescue mission undertaken by the RAF MRS, and civil MRS, despite being called out in all weathers of extreme severity and inhospitable terrain, are all volunteers.
On the 13th March 1951 at 1804hrs, Lancaster TX264 call sign ‘D’ Dog of 120 Squadron, converted for reconnaissance purposes, took off from RAF Kinloss, a ‘fog free’ climate of the Moray Coast between Lossiemouth and Nairn. The pilot was Flt Lt Harry Reid DFC, 24 years of age, a total crew of eight with a Second Pilot, Navigator, Flight Engineer and four signallers. It was a ‘Navigational Exercise’ via Cape Wrath, the very name a ‘mingled feeling of anger and disdain’ this being the extreme north-west point of the Scottish mainland and named after the Viking word ’hvraf’ meaning a turning point where the Vikings turned south to the Hebrides in the ninth century. The cape is isolated and its heathland untamed. Around midnight the aircrew flew over the Lighthouse.
The last position, sent by radio was at 0127hrs 60 miles north of Cape, Wrath this was the very last message from the aircraft.
At 0200hrs a boy living in Torridon, on the east end of Upper Loch Torridon, looking through his bedroom window saw a red flash in the distance, but didn’t think any more about it until he saw the headlines in a Newspaper, ‘Missing Plane Sought’ and this was two days after the aircraft went missing. He mentioned it to the local Postmaster who immediately contacted RAF Kinloss. Similar reports had been received. An Airspeed Oxford was sent to search which concentrated on Beinn Eighe. The wreck of the Lancaster was sighted on the 16th March.
On the 17th March the Kinloss RAF Rescue Team arrived in the area and on the 18th approached Beinn Eighe from the North and into Coire Mhic Fhearchair from Loch Maree. Wreckage from the Lancaster was found after arriving at the foot of the Triple Buttresses and lying in the ‘corrie’. A ‘corrie’ is a semi-circular hollow or a circular space in a mountain side. This particular wreckage had fallen, the bulk of the aircraft being much higher with the crew inside. At the foot of the Western Buttress were the port wing, undercarriage, two engines and various cowlings. On the following day the starboard wing and some other parts had been blown down by the strong winds, but still no fuselage.
The next day another party managed to climb higher and spotted the fuselage, burnt out, but couldn’t reach it. Further attempts were abandoned for the time being.
The weather over the whole period of the search was ‘exceptionally’ severe for the time of the year. It was intensely cold with constant snow showers and high winds and temperatures well below freezing at night.
The North of Scotland is much closer, in fact ‘considerably’ closer to the Arctic Circle than North Wales. Conditions in winter can be more ‘Alpine’, they may be ‘Artic’. Between Beinn Eighe and Sail Mhor the weather was absolutely ‘atrocious’, with the wind coming over the ridge with such force it was virtually impossible to move, and the snow anything from one to four feet. The gully from the corrie was a solid sheet of ice.
It was certain that no one was alive in the wreckage, and in the opinion of the Officer in Charge of the team the wreckage was so situated it couldn’t be reached by any members of the public unless they were ‘highly experienced climbers’.
The CO at RAF Kinloss, in the meantime, had offers from the Moray Mountaineering Club, a Doctor John Brewster with this Club having considerable climbing experience in winter. This offer and another suggestion for help from the Scottish Mountaineering Club, holding their Easter meeting at Achnashellach to the South of Beinn Eighe were both declined.
On the 24th March Dr Brewster informed the CO that men from the Moray Club were going to Beinn Eighe on their own initiative, the RAF team were ordered to return to base. Five men from the Club arrived at Torridon and attempted to reach the aircraft but of no avail and didn’t make a further attempt.
Another attempt was made by a Royal Marine Commando, Captain Mike Banks and Angus Eskine. After a really difficult time with the weather, particularly gusts of wind that brought the human body on all fours, these two reached the main bulk of the aircraft.
Eventually all unauthorised visits were stopped and the RAF Team once again returned to Beinn Eighe and this time reached the wreckage. It was most difficult and dangerous work recovering the bodies; three were actually in the fuselage. The last body was not recovered until 27th August.
Rumours, idle gossip as always, flourished that the crew had survived the impact but rescue being too late. It was obvious to the rescuers, and verified by the medical authorities that death was ‘instantaneous’ in all cases.
After the last body was recovered the team sent the large pieces of the fuselage and wing hurtling down the gulley and later came to be known as ‘Fuselage Gulley’, much of it remains to this day.
Five of the crew of Lancaster TX264 are buried in Kinloss Cemetery, set in the peaceful grounds of the ruined Abbey, they are Sgt W D Beck, Sgt J W Bell, Sgt R Clucas, Flt Sgt J Naismith and Flt Lt P Tennison, in a section reserved for many aircrew who have died flying from RAF Kinloss over the years.
EPILOGUE
On the 28th August 1985, a group of Officer Cadets led by Sergeant Jim Morning and Sgt Tom Jones were airlifted on to the summit of Beinn Eighe by a Sea King Helicopter from 202 Squadron.
One of ‘D’ Dog’s propellers was recovered and put into a lifting net and taken by the helicopter to the road, and then to RAF Kinloss. The twisted three-blade propeller now stands outside the wooden Mountain Rescue Section building as a permanent memorial to ‘D’ Dog’s crew. This memorial has been replaced and is at RAF Lossiemouth now where the current RAF Rescue Team is operational.
The gully where the aircraft crashed is called by mountaineers Fuselage Gully and one of the propellers has to be climbed over and is used by climbers as a belay in winter.THE CREW:-PILOTFlt Lt H S ReidSECOND PILOTSgt R ClucasNAVIGATORFg Off R StrongSIGNALLERFlt Lt P TennisonFLIGHT ENGINEERFlt Sgt G FarquharSIGNALLERSFlt Sgt J NaismithSgt W D BeckSgt J W BellThe Crew
On the original,Callout
The standard of a Mountain Rescue Team, of even the rescue service as a whole fluctuates considerably and, sometimes, alarmingly. Several factors contribute to this.
For many years there was ‘National Service’ eighteen months to two years. A Man would be trained as a good mountaineer and when competent he would be lost to civilian life. Sometimes several members would be demobilised at the same time. Not only would it be imperative to find new volunteers but also men to train these novices, also the teams had to be commanded.
To say that they were sometimes led by incompetent men is unfair and misleading, but because there might be no experienced men available at one time, they were often led by Officers and NCO’s who would be incompetent to deal with emergencies, even those which might appear simple problems to the experienced mountaineer.
Sometimes, and by chance, the fault might be corrected in time, for with tact a good team could teach an Officer his job (although no team will tolerate an inefficient NCO. Either the NCO will go, or the good men and therefore, the standard of the team). Tact was required on both sides and when life is in the balance, as it always is on rescues; feelings ran too close to the surface. The fewer experienced mountaineers in a team, the more tolerant prevailed. As the Service took shape and experienced men were in the majority the teams worked more smoothly, and with, as it were, less emotional involvement.
Teams at the start of 1951 were inadequately equipped and poorly trained, but where – in Wales – this knowledge was confined to the RAF, in Scotland the repercussions of the Beinn Eighe disaster were widely publicised. About this time two Medical Officers Berkeley and Mason who had put forward suggestions for improved efficiency came to the notice of the Air Ministry. It was largely due to the efforts of these two Medical Officers that the organisation and training of the teams underwent a drastic change in the following year. So much was learned by all Mountain Rescue Teams.
One of the team members who was on the crash and has a unique account of what happened Joss Gosling who lived in Fort William. He was only a young lad at the time and the crash affected him greatly.
The team photos Joss Gosling
Joss was a competent mountaineer as he had climbed previously before his National Service. He had some unique photos and a diary of events of what happened. He explains how awesome it was to see the corrie for the first time and how he felt during the long days of searching and recovery. His description of the great Corrie being like a Cathedral always sticks in my mind and when the mist swirls in these great cliffs you can feel his words of that eventful time. He explained that the “ugly step” on the ridge caused problems as the kit they had was very poor but they did their best, he is a wonderful man and a great example to us all. Joss was at the crash site on the 50thanniversary in 2001 and speaks with great authority on this tragedy. The RAF Kinloss team put a small memorial on the propeller below the gully in 2001 in memory of those who died in this crash, “lest we forget”
I was very privileged to have my last weekend before I retired from the RAF in this area as a member of the RAF Kinloss mrt. This area due to its history is unique and I have spent many days enjoying these peaks. The “Torridon Trilogy” Beinn Eighe, Liathach and Beinn Alligin became test pieces for team training first in summer then in winter conditions. Many of the classic climbs in summer and winter were climbed by team members and a few epic callouts over the years. These hills have huge corries and alpine ridges where rescues have occurred mostly not reported by the National Press. The local Torridon Team and the RAF MR have assisted climbers and walkers over the years. I have climbed Fuselage gully on many occasions with team members during my 37 years with the Mountain Rescue Service. In early Dec 2007 with two of the young, Kinloss Team members we had a special day. This was my last day with the RAF before I retired. It is a fairly simple climb by modern standards but I broke a crampon at the beginning and it made the day very interesting as we were being chased by a big storm as we descended. One crampon on the steep descent was thought provoking and I can only think of how the team in 1951 with their simple kit coped. I was brought up to respect the history of this majestic area and its people; there was no finer place to spend my last weekend than in this special place. On my retirement I spend a two great years with the Torridon MRT as a team member. Finally retired from Mountain Rescue it is a great privilege to return to and enjoy the beauty of this mountain, its ridges, corries and wild life.
Recently in 2009 two well known climbers were avalanched whilst descending from Fuselage gully and the wreckage stopped them being seriously injured as one of the climbers hit the propeller on his way down the gully. It made big news in the Press!
.
In 2011 on the 60 th Anniversary of the Crash at the exact date a group of serving RAF MRT & Torridon MRT went up to crash site. The actual weather according to Joss Gosling who was on the actual search for the aircraft was very similar. We had thigh deep snow and the journey into the corrie took over 3 hours. BBC Radio Scotland accompanied us on the day and did a programme on the incident. We had a moving ceremony at the crash site, where we left a small wreath. The Stornoway Coastguard helicopter flew over the site as the weather came in making it a very moving day. Joss was then in his late 80’s was interviewed by the BBC Scotland at the Hotel where the team had camped 60 years before.
What a story to tell and it still lives on and must never be forgotten.
Recently over the past years 2013/2014 and 2016/17/18/19 a relative of the incident Geoff Strong a nephew of Fg Off Robert Strong who was killed in the crash asked to visit the crash site. He lives down South and has now three times made the pilgrimage with myself and friends to the great Corrie. This place even after all these years after the 1951 crash mean so much to many.
People ask why do I visit these places?
“Just speak to Geoff and then look in Joss eyes who was there when he tells his story of a young lad in 1951.” He never forgot what happend here, yet despite the horror they saw this place brought him back again and again to remember the crew who died.
In May 2018 I was up again at the crash site with Geoff and Heather, Ian and Andy Joss’s family. We had a new plaque to put on the propeller below the Triple Buttress. Unfortunately the old plaque was put on in 2001 to last and it will take a bit more time to replace it with the new slate one. Joss though not well came up and stayed in a local Hotel and had a meal with us after our wet day on the hill. Though Joss was not well he enjoyed the day and at the end his eyes were sparkling and we had a lovely day thanks to all those who organised it.
Sadly in November 2018 Joss passed away in Fort William surrounded by his loving family his memory will live on every time we visit Torridon and Beinn Eighe.
We did complete the replacement of the plaque on Sat May 11 th 2019 and the family were with us and Geoff Strong. It was a special day. The plaque is now in place many thanks for all the help of Lossiemouth MRT and Geoff Strong and Joss’s family for providing the new plaque.
The Marines visited the site on Remembrance Day..
It’s been a couple of years since I visited and I doubt I will again due to health. This place is an incredible place of wildness and means a lot to many. I think sadly I doubt I will manage again.,
The Marines and RAF Lossiemouth MRT also visited the crash recently as did the annual winter course a few years before it is great to see this that,
If you get a chance visit this place, if you area climber climb a route it’s such a stunning place to be. Few places are like this huge cliffs a loch and the wildness.
It has been many years since I lost my Mother, she died of Leukemia an awful disease which she kept hidden from most of the family, as she did not want to worry us.
That was typical of her and off her generation. It was only at the end I was told she was very ill. I was at RAF Valley in North Wales in a job as full time Mountain Rescue Deputy Team Leader and was living with my partner and her young daughter. As we are at that time in life I was caught up with my career, my life and very driven. I had always phoned Mum every week but she never told me she was ill until the last few days of her life when I was summoned home.
I was shocked to see her so frail and yet so strong in mind and still very beautiful. She wanted my brother home immediately from Bermuda and he just made it. She died three days later. Though in great pain she never complained and just wanted her family around.
My life in Mountain Rescue has led me to see many tragedies close up and I think I never really felt the effect of this great loss at the time as I was hardened by what I had seen in the mountains. It is a terrible thing to admit that I seemed to cut myself off at the time from the hurt and pain of her death.
Even when I had to go back home straight after the funeral to North Wales and my partner Vicky tried to console me I was very hard to deal with, it was my way, to “man up “and not show the hurt I felt. I did get a few days to talk to my Mum at the end, we had a few chats even though she was very ill and I told her about my life in Wales, my new love and plans. She said as long as I was happy so was she.
Mum was the finest person I have ever met, she was so caring . She gave me along with my Dad a great chance in life and my love for the outdoors. She was the one who dealt with the five children a huge Manse the poor wages and a big house to heat and look after. The love we had been incredible and the adventures we had were life enduring. Long days on the hills, in Arran, Galloway and the Highlands a love of sport and she was an avid Ayr United fan both home and away! She did not have long with the grandchildren but they were her joy, how she would love to see how they have all done in life.
Money was always tight in a big family she would give away her last penny.
My Dad was a minister was his pride and joy and he visited his people the sick and the dying every night, we rarely saw him. Mum brought us all up and the work she did for the Church was incredible.
At the end Mum was very upset that she could leave us nothing in the way of material possessions but she gave us all so many life skills I can never repay her. These last few days were very special and I will never forget carrying her to the bathroom and helping her near the end.
She was so frail but so clear in what she said to me. To her I was the “wild child” of the family but she looked after me and was always there for me, it is such a loss in my life I feel it and still miss her and my Dad. It was such a pity as we all progressed in life we could have made life much better for them but it was not to be but what a legacy they gave us all.
Nowadays I worry as all many children are interested in is the financial legacy they may inherit and Mum and Dad are packed off to an Old Folk’s home.
Today is a special day but our parents are special always, never put off for another day what you can do today in showing your appreciation for them, they are not here forever! Treat every day as Mother’s Day and tell them you love them.
I was at a funeral recently where a son had fallen out with his mother and he had not spoken to her for over a year she died suddenly. He never had the chance to tell her like I did how much he loved her.
Never let pride get in the way of true love and respect, life is too short. We have much to learn about looking after our families like many other countries do. I have travelled the world and seen how those with little treat their parents. Yet we who have so much send them off to homes for a lonely end of life.
As I write I am so glad to have such a lovely Mother and feel very proud of her and wish she was still with me. When I am in trouble she is always there for me. How she would have loved to see how we all are, I am sure she does. Every year most days I remember her and wish she was about . She was also a great granny and we all loved her. I never knew how much she worried about me in my life in the mountains. Her life was full of love and kindness. Great things to have left to the rest of us.
I can never repay her for looking after her “wild child” I hope I did not let her down.
I am re-blogging this since last year I still feel the same even more so as I get older and see every day what our parents did for us.
“Means reliance on your own powers rather than others.”
It is what many of us call this is the “silly season” it’s already started in my mind. The daylight hours are now getting longer and the weather changing. Mountain Rescue Teams are getting busy as the weather, the slow change catches folk out.
We all make mistakes but I my view we should be a lot more self reliant when out on the mountains and wild places.
I was taught by so many great mentors one of the things was “self reliance “ a lot of folk still think that if they get into trouble all the have to do is pick up your phone call the Police and a Helicopter or Mountain Rescue Team will appear. Sadly this is not always the case !
How many folk know how many helicopters are there in Scotland that can respond weather permitting to launching an SAR aircraft to assist.
They may have so many other things on. Like a rescue at sea a big crash that needs immediate evacuation a sick child that’s need to go to hospital quickly from a remote area. Someone has to prioritises these incidents. So you with your broken ankle or lost in the hills you may have a long wait before the “cavalry” arrive.
Are you prepared for hunkering down and waiting for assistance ? Try it spend some time on a summit and see how cold it gets.
Do you carry any emergency clothing such as an insulated jacket survival bag or bothy bag. A bothy bag is invaluable if it all goes wrong.
Do you carry a spare battery (a charger that will top up your phone there not expensive and a must for your phone) in a waterproof case that’s if you can get a signal, a torch that works a map compass etc . All part of being Self reliant !
So I ask you to look at the weather plan your day as we lose daylight, leave your route with someone you trust. The mountain Rescue teams and Dogs will find you but need to know what your plans were. You must try to be self reliant in every aspect.
Do not be a follower learn to navigate. Paths are snow covered in winter conditions change everything. Guide book time’s can be so different in deep snow or bad weather re appraise your route to suit the conditions.
A simple whistle is such an important tool as is communicating with your companions. Look after your companions do not let them lag behind stay together. Have a plan if all goes wrong.
At this time of year rivers flood and sometimes are uncross able. How would you cope with that? Check the weather forecasts and listen to good local advice.
Yet the hills push us out to the wonderful world of emerging from winter.
As I said try and find out how many helicopters are available for SAR in Scotland you could have a long wait are you prepared for that.
Could you look after your companion if they are struggling ?
The Mountain Rescue Teams are all volunteers, great people who all live the mountains and wild places. We can all do our bit to help by trying to be as safe as we can. Yet if we are in trouble they will and do risk their lives for us.
We are so lucky to have them so why not support your local team or an area you love. A little donation can help a huge bit.
I learned a lot when I
was Accident statistician and working in the Rescue Centre I spoke direct on the hill to them.
Often is was a husband and wife and the male had a problem on the hill. Often the male on many occasions had the map.
I spoke to many involved and it seems mainly men wanted to control their partner. Many would not agree with me but everyone I dealt with wanted to learn to navigate but many sadly never were given the chance
It’s great to see lassies taking control and doing things on their own. Things at last are changing thank goodness.
So please if you’re going on the mountains make sure they know where they are. Instead of battering round the hills spend time passing on your experience. It’s great to see many I have taught passing on their experiences.
I loved reading about climbs on the Ben especially in winter. I had always wanted to climb the Curtain an early steep ice climb. It had always intimidated me as there were some “ exciting “ photos of it in Cold climbs a great book on Winter climbing in the UK.
The Ben
The year before we had been in Canada ice climbing (1984) The ice there was incredible steep and showed the way forward. It took a bit of getting used to and we came back full of confidence on ice.
We left early I was working shifts my mate Mark ( Cheeky) Sinclair came with me. He had been to Canada with me and was full of confidence. We arrived at the CIC hut as dawn broke. Dumped some kit and had a break as the Ben came through the clouds. It was one of those special mornings. Midweek there were a few in the hut awake and getting ready for their hill day.
We were soon off and the Ben was silent no crowds. It’s only a short wander to our climb on the huge Carn Dearg buttress. It’s a sheet off ice on the slabs. The Curtain first ascent J Knight and D Bathgate 1968, A short water ice route Grade 4 short but 300 feet climb.
I led the first pitch good front pointing on perfect ice at a steady angle. Each
Step and ice axe was bombproof and I was soon at the belay. I got sorted and called Mark to climb. The view from the belay was magic. Mark was soon with me and started a short traverse to the ice bulge. He was soon gone and I felt a bit alone. I could see the climbers below setting of for their routes.
We could not see each other now and I waited for the call that Mark was safe. I heard him followed by three tugs on the rope to say climb. It soon came and I stripped the belay feelng alone and vulnerable.
I headed across the short traverse the moved up the steep ice. Mark had put in the odd ice screw It felt good as I still had the Canada confidence It was fine and I was soon at the top we headed down 5 Gully. This can be very dangerous after heavy snow or a thaw. Not today everything was rock hard and we chatted about the great routes all around. Mark had done many a few solo he knew the hill well,
Glovers chimney
Glovers Chimney First ascent 1902 G Macpee, G. C Williams and D Henderson.A steep with a steep entry pitch and a final steep chimney finishes at Tower Gap the ength 450 feet grade 3/4 , I could not imagine cutting steps up the steep initial pitch with a single axe. We moved quickly up into the top chimney and it was great to be on a mixed pitch with good gear for protection. I enjoyed this pitch and we were soon on Tower Ridge at the famous Gap.in my first winter ascent of Tower Ridge in 1974 that Gap was busy and we had to 3 climbers on Glovers chimney it was getting dark and the wind was up. today it was stunning I was soon with Mark and lead the Gap onto the ridge we could see 2 climbers on the Great tower. It was a lovely winter scramble to the plateau where it was still and sunny. We wandered along to the summit and chatted all the way. We then headed up to Carn Mor Dearg and the down by the old Abseil posts to the hut. We had a brew and headed back blathering all the way. It was a grand day with a special mate.
In 1995 Mark and his pal Neil fell in winter from Parallel B he had been climbing all over the world but he loved ice climbing. It broke me for a few months and took time out from Rescues. This wee blog is dedicated to Mark and Neil.
This book is long awaited written by true lovers of these mountains I spent many great days on the hills and rock in the past here. Glen Clova was our playground after work on the climbs. It is published by the Scottish Mountain press a great group of folk who work tirelessly for mountaineering, and care of the wild places.
The Cairngorms & North – East Scotland.
The Cairngorms & North –East Scotlanda review by Adrian Trednall
This time three years ago I was reviewing the newest edition of the SMP’s Munro book. For those of you familiar with the current (4th edition) of the Munros book then this review is probably superfluous. Ethos, design and production of The Munros and The Cairngorms & North-East Scotland is nigh on identical.
Think glorious photos, informative and interesting writing, quality route maps. An encyclopaedic coverage of one of Scotland’s premier mountainous areas. Yet, like all recent SMP publications, the sum is very much greater than the total of the parts.
Originally, I’d just intended to skim through the book and do the review but the mix of photos and interesting text was too much so I pretty much felt compelled to read it cover to cover, hence the delay in this review.
The SMP describes the book as:
“From Angus in the south to the farmland of Moray in the north, the forests, moors and lochs of North-East Scotland lead upwards to a vast plateau of tundra studded with glacier-carved corries and glens – the Cairngorms. Here, across an expanse of 8,000 square kilometres, lie not only several of Scotland’s best and highest Munros but a wealth of Corbetts, Grahams and many other outstanding hills, each distinct in character.
This hillwalking guide is a paean to the wonder of these mountains and their surrounding uplands, amongst whose nooks, crannies and sweeping plains newcomers and aficionados alike will find inspiration for journeys of all lengths and a bewitching sense of space and timelessness.
Route descriptions for all the listed and notable hills are accompanied by colour maps, and sublime imagery showcases the region in all its moods. With their unique climate, geology and habitats, these hills teem with the histories of countless bygone land dwellers, climbers, walkers and wildlife, and you will also find extensive insight and points of interest to deepen your understanding and appreciation of this remarkable corner of Scotland.”
Not just a compelling read, not just sumptuously illustrated but a multi sensory extravaganza. I’m probably showing my age but I love books; the design, the feel, even the smell of a freshly printed book all add to the experience. The SMP is continuing it’s roll out of high quality books, not just biographies and specific climbing guides but more general geographic volumes such as this one.
In many ways reading the book was a pleasurable trip down memory lane. It reminded me of staying at Corrour bothy doing what is now the TGO Challenge. Back in the last century when I did it, the name was “Ultimate Challenge” after a (now defunct?) outdoor brand. Glorious weather, new friends made, wood smoke were all recalled as were sunburn and snow patches. Fast forward to this century and a winter spent around the Cairngorms. F16 crashes, foot and mouth and the dark black dog of depression. If memory serves correctly then I climbed a brilliant route on Lurchers with one of the authors, Heather Morning.
The book works well with three top authors pooling their knowledge into an easily digested format. Well done to Iain Young, Anne Butler and Heather Morning for producing such a seamlessly woven bookThe fine selection of photos serves as an appetiser, a lure to those that don’t know the Cairngorms, an aide memoire to those that do.
As you can tell, I was properly impressed by the book and think SMP has hit the proverbial nail on the head with this one. Many thanks to all the team at SMP for continuing their prodigious output of top notch books and to chief honcho, Robert Michael Lovell, keep the books coming.
Please buy the book direct from SMP at the link below not only to ensure the continued output of books but because the profits will go towards the Scottish Mountaineering Trust.
Life has been hard over the last few months it’s been a long hard winter. Yet I have been surrounded by true friends whose care and thoughtfulness is heart warming. It’s taking time to sort my medication and after tumbling down the stairs I had to get a bannister fitted. Some days I could not get out my bed I was so shattered. Most days a visitor would arrive with soup or other things it was humbling. Believe me I would cry at times but simple acts made me feel so humble.Cards and letters arrived and each had a story for me. Memories flooded back and forth a period I was struggling with pain and seemed to be getting no where. Now things look a bit better the sun is out and despite the cold I canCope with short walks .Over the years 5 decades I have met so many great folk in my SAR world. From all generations I love the way you all are. How incredibly you and your families responded throughout the years.I love to hear how many are doing well and learned so much so quickly and how you all never let me down. I am glad your families partners and kids are appreciated for their loyalty to what we did. That was never an easy fight.I made so many friends all over Scotland and throughout the UK. Military and Civilian we were all a family despite our loyalties to our teams. I love meeting grandkids who ask me about their Grandfather Grandmother time in the teams. Gosh they make me laugh. You tell them of the great adventures we had epic rescues and of Mountains all over the world. The things we have done- Bridge Jumping to parapentng at night of An Teallach. Stuck on Island after call outs and the great work with the SAR helicopters.Life is ever changing but please do not leave to meeting old pals to funerals. Get in touch go to reunions and work to see pals.
Look after each other – Over the last few months two ex members have committed suicide. How do we miss these things ?
Over the years we in all voluntary services give so much. Yet what we all achieved builds a bond that is stronger than many realise at the time.Please look after each other make that call to find your mates. Do not leave it to a funeral meet in happier times.You all mean the world to me from SARDA and all the Mountain Rescue teams, helicopter crews and so many others.I feel a lot stronger and looking forward to little walks again.
hill Fionaven I love this mountain and I have been very lucky to climb it about 10 times. It is spectacular and can be seen for miles. The shattered quartzite makes the hill look white and in winter its a wonderful day. Its a long day and if you combine a climb with the ridge and its tops you will find it hard going. I love the names on this hill Gannu Mor, Lord Reay’s seat, A’ Cheir Gorm, Creag Urbhard. Loch Dionard and Strath Dionard
Almost a Munro, Foinaven is – regardless of status – a truly magnificent mountain. A complex massive of narrow, shattered quartzite ridges, Foinaven gives a memorable expedition. To me it can be a great long hill day and the very fit can add it along with Arkle. It was always another special hill way before some of my team mates pals had backed it in the Grand National at odds of 100/1 in 1967.
Fionaven falls twelve feet short of the required 3,000ft for Munro status – and all the better for it! It is a long and complex hill with many hidden secrets in winter a fine traverse. The views are superlative and it’s a massive amount of rock and shattered Corrie’s that with the view to the sea and the huge moors this is the wild North. It now has a Estate road that takes you in to Strath Dionard and Loch Doinard that you can cycle in. In the very early days there was no such access. There was a no bikes sign but as the track I was told the road was partly funded by SNH I wonder if it’s still inforce or even legal?
Foinaven is a range in itself, offering an abundance of wild and characterful terrain to explore. That said, the track down Strath Dionard has somewhat tamed that wild feeling “Despite the track the mountain’s location at the extremity of the northern mainland will hopefully ensure its quiet demeanour remains intact. The scale and complexity of some of the cliffs only becomes apparent once you are stood beneath them. There is a lifetimes worth of exploring to do here – assuming you are not easily spooked by loose or unstable rock!” SMC Guide
This was a place I loved the old classic Corriemulzie Mountaineering Club Guide of 1966 a rock and Ice Guide to Easter Ross. I feel this guide that I still have gave me some great ideas of climbing in this area. Some of the great names put up routes here, Lovat, Weir, Clough Sullivan, Park, Tranter and Rowe. It had a history in the RAF Kinloss Mountain Rescue Team, we had to visit this wild place.
I climbed here a lot in the mid 70’s we had a long day on the routes South Ridge Right Hand section it was a modest 300 metre VDIFF it was long loose and tricky route finding. The RAF Kinloss Team had put up a few routes in the past and we followed a tradition from the 50’s. It was the Team Leaders Pete McGowan last weekend we climbed another route and got back about 0100. I remembered the walk out in bright Moonlight and seeing the fish in the river by torchlight. It was an introduction to big loose mountain routes and a huge experience for me. Next day we were up Ben Kilbrek no stopping us then. I am sure there was a big accident where two climbers were killed here in the 60’s and that put a few off climbing here?
This was from my diary “I remember having a fun day but lots of crazy route finding and near misses with loose blocks and Jim Green missing me with a huge one that crashed down beside me. The smell of cordite stays with you as the rocks smash down the cliff. The climbing gear in these days was limited, protection basic and we had big bags and big boots it was a scary day but what a place to be. It was along climb 1000 foot but so many variations were possible and our route finding was basic. Thinking back it was a massive learning curb and a big serious place to be, Jim must have smoked 50 fags on that route.
The walk out was long and seemed to go on for ever as we then did the traverse of the mountain.
Another was in the early 80’s – I was just back from North Wales at Valley and back in Scotland. We had very big bags and a wild VS route agead with a very young Pam Ayres. It has routes of about 1000 feet loose in places and we had a shower of rain making the rock very slippy. On the summit we sunbathed and I fell asleep. When I woke Pam had the rope and the rock gear in his bag he did not realise we still had the ridge and a long walk out ahead. Another time (We even took a boat into the loch by Sea king for the Estate many years ago and after we put it into the loch climbed all day. Was that cheating? ) We did many more routes over the years and never saw anyone on the cliffs. The winter potential was incredible and we climbed an ice fall with the late Mark Sinclair in the early 80,s. I know that the late Andy Nisbet and others did some wild climbing here on the main cliff. I took a few of the young rock jocks in to the cliffs and they learned about loose rock and mountain Almost at the top of the country now, and we visit the beautiful Foinaven. Wild, rugged & remote (once you’ve left the NC500 superhighway), what more could you ask for? Our last route was on the Ganu Mor Slabs (Grade 3 ***).
A huge plate of immaculate gneiss perched above one of the roughest and wildest corries in the country. Serious and committing but never technically hard, with views over hundreds of square miles of empty Sutherland. When combined with the (almost as good) North Face of Cnoc Duail and the Lower Coire Duail Slabs it makes a superb scrambling day.”
I will never forget the long walk out seeing the car lights from the road teasing you thinking it all over. Great days and memories.
Many of these walks and climbs became a classic in my days with the RAF Mountain rescue team.The classic Traverse is one of the best.
The young troops enjoyed this route and it became a right of passage for some. In winter its a fierce mountain where in varying conditions it can provide a long Alpine day where care is need.
This would also be a good place to use the rope on the scrambles and show the new team members the routes and places where care is needed and sadly accidents can happen. This was our job and those pieces of area knowledge were vital. The next time we could be here may be at night helping the local Dundonald MRT. They have a base at the foot of the mountain nowadays.
One of these days we did the whole ridge plus the outliers on a long summer day. It was special as three of the troops were young and loved every minute. We took a rope and took the hardest route up the pinnacles.
This would also be a good place to use the rope on the scrambles and show the new team members the routes and places where care is needed and sadly accidents can happen. This was our job and those pieces of area knowledge were vital. The next time we could be here may be at night helping the local Dundonald MRT. They have a base at the foot of the mountain nowadays.
One of these days we did the whole ridge plus the outliers on a long summer day. It was special as three of the troops were young and loved every minute. We took a rope and took the hardest route up the That day I told them the incredible story of the attempt of a Rescue a Documentary based on the diaries of Iain Ogilvie, “Duel on An Teallach” its now on utube about a single man’s effort to rescue two fellow-climbers. This was after they slipped from the ridge and fell down a 700-foot gully while climbing the An Teallach ridge in winter the north west of Scotland in April 1966. It is a tale I know well as the Kinloss MRT team were involved in the recovery Ian Olgilive did an incredible job to try and save the lives of his pals and the late Doctor Patey reached the casualties at night after Ian’s epic attempt to lower them alone down the face. Ian was awarded an MBE for his efforts and Doctor Patey the Queens Commendation for Bravery. The Ross and Sutherland Police Team led by Donnie Smith followed Tom Patey in that night. Please watch that video it is a insight into winter mountaineering. https://www.youtub
That day I went out to the Munro top Sgurr Creag an Eich with Sarah the rest sat on the top enjoying the views. We dumped our bags on the beleach and headed out it was an incredible day. I was a bit fitter then but not as fit as Sarah. Instead we walked slowly chatted as the views of this hidden side of An Teallach expanded. We sat on the summit and enjoyed it then took a few photos.
No one knew that was my last Munro top that day but I told her. She took a photo, then we wandered back to meet the rest of the boys. They I think had fallen asleep on the last summit. We walked off on a stunning evening with the North West at its best. They were all full of this specail day and had enjoyed it the weather was superb as was the company. They laughed at me running ahead getting the photos.
I found it great to see how these new team member’s had developed, the ones that last love the mountains forever. They share the joys and the sadness at times as a fatality is never easy on the hills. Yet the memories of bringing someone of alive is so fulfilling. They grow up and learn so quick. Many spent only a few years in the team yet they were involved in some epics that stayed with them for life. You watch them change and in a couple of winters become incredible capable young folk. There is great responsibility in this job most are young folk who trust you completel. At times there is great danger and you push them in bad weather to ensure they can cope when the call outs happen. Few ever let us down and you watch them become steady mountaineers but even better humans. I never stopped enjoying seeing them improve and you become very fond of them all. You can always learn and laugh as you are now the “old Codger” but still of use at times.
There can be great winter climbing and what a way to finish on the main ridge.
This is a great read_ Call-out is the definitive collection of tales about early mountain rescue in the Highlands of Scotland from Hamish MacInnes – Everestpioneer and arguably the most famous Scottish mountaineer of the twentieth century.
In the late 1960s, MacInnes led the Glencoe Mountain Rescue teamand together they developed innovative techniques and equipment in order to save lives – often risking their own in the process – whether night or day, and always at a moment’s notice. He was a central figure in the rescue during the 1963 New Year tragedy in the Cuillins on the Isle of Skye, and led groundbreaking rescues on Buichaille Etive Mor, Ben Nevis, Bidean nam Bian and many other legendary Scottish mountains.
Thanks to Kalie my great friend for taking me to Fort William Mountain Festival in Fort William.it was a great night and I felt honoured to be on the Sofa with such great Ambassadors of the the wild places. I did not think I would make as I felt pretty weak due to my illness. In the end it was great to be there surrounded by many great folk, I felt the the love and kindness all the night.
Some characters
To me the star of the show was Myrtle Simpson aged 94 what an inspirational lady.
Myrtle Lillias Simpson is a Scottish skier and the tenth woman to receive the Polar Medal. She has been called the “mother of Scottish skiing”. She was the first woman to ski across Greenland on an unsupported expedition. She was president of the Scottish Ski Club in the 1970s and has written several books. Wikipedia
Myrtle at end with Yellow top please read her achievements it’s incredible.
It’s hard meeting so many friends but in the end worthwhile. I had a meal with pals plus my nephew Scott who drove up from Ayr. I stayed the night in Fort William I needed that break as the night exhausted me. This was the 20 th Festival in Fort William and I can’t thank the organiser and volunteers of the festival enough.
On the way home Kalie arranged a short visit to see Annie Gosling the widow of Joss who was on the Beinn Eighe crash in the 50’s. It was good to see her and her daughter Heather.
It was great to be home and thanks again to Kalie for being such a star.
Thanks to all your kindness is so overwhelming at times.
The winners for the 2024 Scottish Awards for Excellence in Mountain Culture will soon be selected and we will be announcing them early next year. The Awards will be presented at the Launch Night on the 15th February 2024.
Since 2008 the Scottish Awards for Excellence in Mountain Culture has been awarded to 25 incredibly deserving individuals; 16 Adult winners, and nine Youth winners since the Youth category was established in 2015. Find out about all the previous award winners here.
The 2024 Adult and Youth Scottish Awards for Excellence in Mountain Culture will be presented on Thursday 15th February at the Launch Night. There will also be a surprise third award just for this year! If you would like to see our three very worthy winners be presented with their awards then book yourself a ticket for the Launch Night.
The Fort William Mountain Festival, since 2008, has sought to celebrate and award outstanding achievement of individuals in our outdoor world. We present both a Youth and Adult award at the Festival each year and invite you to nominate who the next recipient of these prestigious awards might be. They are a rare breed, they stand out from the crowd and they inspire us all to be the best we can be as they become the best version of themselves.
Where: Nevis Centre, Main Theatre
When: 19.00-22.00, Thursday 15th February 2024
FForf Every year we need a team of people to help out on the weekend of the festival. If you would like to volunteer please drop us an email at volunteer@mountainfestival.co.uk
Famine Walls and Foodbanks what a state we are living in.
After a winter wander on Beinn Dearg I had a look at some other effects of this tragic time in Scotland’s history. On that day I followed the “Famine Wall” on to near the summit and then all the way along the ridge. Its a huge feature that few know of its history and why it was built. It was built in the time of the Potato Famine in the 1840’s its a story of tragedy and” Man’s inhumanity to man” Yet its good to know some of the stories of these majestic places and the cost in emigration to our small country. How many died making these walls and roads we will never know but the Walls and roads are there as a reminder. So please when you visit these places please pass on these stories?
Many who climb Suilven in the North West Highlands of Scotland may wonder why has a dry stone wall running across its middle. The wall was built about 160 years ago. Some of the stones are massive like all the walls in these mountains.
Beinn Dearg wall
I had two pals camp up on the summit this week they took some great photos especially of the wall that crosses the mountain. What effort went into that Wall? Its a long day and how this Wall was built is incredible as you hit the ridge there it is. You feel so feeble struggling up this mountain and yet over 140 years ago people built a wall here?
The famous Road of Destitution is another that I was told about and how it was built.
Why is it there ? I was told these tales long ago they are a huge part of our Mountain Heritage and big reminders into our history. The late George Bruce, John Hinde and Hamish Browns magical book Hamish’s Mountain Walk and Climbing the Corbetts are full of historical information and tales of these mountains.
There is far more to these wild places than ticking a list of mountains. Names like Destitution Road and Famine walls are a huge part of the heritage of this area
These were such terrible times where so many left emigrated “forced” for places like America, Canada, Australia and other places. This was due to famine and the terrible treatment of those who controlled the land. We lost so many folk that the Highlands never recovered frpm
Those who climb up Suilven will be amazed by how remote and incredibly steep it is . I cannot imagine the sheer effort to also carry/move such huge stones which make up the Destitution or “Famine wall” that crosses the mountain. When building the Wall where did they stay, they must have camped high up at times, there are few shelters and huge walks to get to the mountains .
Why were they built?
Suiliven Wall
The sad answer is starvation. In the 1840s and 1850s, during the Highland clearances, the people were forced from their lands by rich landowners to make way for sheep farming. Many leaving for America, Canada, Australia, etc. a potato famine struck leaving those that were left behind starving. Too proud to beg for charity, which the rich landowners had refused anyway, they were forced to work with little or no purpose, building roads and walls in the middle of nowhere in exchange for food. These were the ‘destitution’ roads and famine walls. They still exist across the Highlands to this day, a sad reminder of a blighted history.
The Destitution road. A832
From a Tourist write up.
This remains popular with travellers and tourists alike as its fine stretch offers a unique view of the Scottish Highlands. How many know that after endless hours of graft, what was created by the desperate men was the A832, a 126-mile long road which links Cromarty, on the east coast, to Gairloch on the west coast. For 125 miles, it remains in a single county, making it the longest 3-digit A road in Scotland and the fifth longest in Britain.
Dundonnell to Braemore
The most famous stretch of this road is from Dundonnell to Braemore is one of the most famous parts of Destitution Road. The A832 road enters the wild Dundonnell Gorge where it climbs alongside the waterfalls on the Dundonnell River before leaving at Fain Bridge.
Fain Bothy just off the road we used to use it as a Base Camp before it demise. Its in the middle of the moor a wild place.
It then travels across the wild open moors reaching an altitude of 1000 feet where you get these incredible views of An Teallach,The Fannichs and Beinn Dearg. I have used this road often in winter it is wild and one can only think of the effort making this road, controlling the rivers and how bad the weather could be. How many died making this in the days before Health and Safety? I have come back in a blizzard on a few occasions this is a wild place where the wind sweeps across there is no shelter. I often think of those who built this place.
Yet in Scotland it was a lot better than what occurred in Ireland during their famine. Yet is was a close run thing, The effects of the famine negatively impacted the already impoverished Highland population, leaving them in further despair and desperation.
The disease is thought to have affected around 150,000 people with one-third of the population leaving Scotland between 1841 and 1861. Many thousands died on the voyages or on the shores of their new world.
Destitution road remains popular with travellers and tourists alike as its fine stretch offers a unique view of the Scottish Highlands. It would be good to see something to teach future generations of its history.
Have we moved on today with Food-banks etc?
Rations: A day’s work involved eight hours of labour, six days a week.
Oatmeal rations for the workers were set at 680g for men, 340g per woman and 230g per child. Barely subsistence.
Yesterday I gave my SMC Journals to Robin Clothier a SMC s stalwart. There was nearly;80;years worth. They gave me so much enjoyment and back ground on my Statistician. Robin a is connoisseur.Of mountaineering despite being a great climber he has been a good friend over the years. It was a sad day but great to see others will enjoy them. I would like to thank the Editors past and present for their efforts.
I loved the incredible tales of the first ascent the classic “” the Bat and the wicked”:Nightshift on Zero are a must read as are the early ascents especially in winter all over Scotland. I spent days reading the wonderful routes. It was also a great guide to new routes before the internet.
I also used it for accident research early incidents were only published in the Journal. There is such a great wealth of information in them .
SMC Journal
A Brief History of the Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal
The SMC was founded in 1889. One of its founders, Joseph Gibson Stott, argued for the presence of a Club Journal, in which information about the Scottish hills could be conveniently recorded and circulated. It seems amazing now, well over a century later, that Stott had a hard time convincing a pilot meeting of its viability and even desirability.
The arguments against were mainly that Scotland was too small to be able to provide more than a few numbers of the Journal, while Stott maintained (for the first time he believed) that there were at least 300 mountains in Scotland whose height exceeded 3,000 feet. Luckily for us, Stott won the day and became its first Editor.
Of interest to readers may be the fact that in those far-off days before word processing on fast computers, the Journal was published three times a year, in January, May and September. This continued until 1918, when the harsh economies of the First World War imposed a reduction to two issues per year. From 1942 onwards, the Journal was published annually.
Stott emigrated to New Zealand, having published seven numbers, the task being taken over by William Douglas in 1892. A lover of the hills, and equally sympathetic to walkers and mountaineers, Douglas (after whom the Douglas Boulder on Ben Nevis is named) continued as Editor for nearly 18 years, producing 53 issues. It was during his reign that the Axes and Rope logo of the Club first appeared on the cover of the Journal, in January 1898.
One very important project carried out by Douglas was the publication, in the Journal, of the first SMC Guide Book. This ran from 1901 to 1907 and was the precursor of the now familiar and popular series of separately published SMC Guides. Douglas handed over the Journal to Frank Sidney Goggs who began in 1910 and maintained its publication through the difficult war years before retiring in 1920. Douglas had passed on to Goggs the early embargoes on both foreign articles and poetry, restrictions which have long been lifted, though the Journal continues to emphasise both its Scottish content and its insistence on a high standard of mountain poetry.
To help promote writing on Scottish Mountaineering, and as a fitting memorial to W.H. Murray, in 1998 we began the W.H. Murray Literary Prize.
With financial support from the Scottish Mountaineering Trust, most volumes of the Journal have now been scanned and archived. See Journal Downloads.
In the 59 years plus that I have been mountaineering there was limited guides or knowledge was not easy shared. Maps were basic unlike now.
Weather forests were extremely basic and there was limited Avalanche information. The few books written were extremely hard to understand. There was also a thought amongst many that “Avalanches did not happen in Scotland. I found that out the hard way with a big avalanche on Lancet Edge in 1972 . The after effects on being buried and swallowing of snow affected my respiratory system to this day.
Photo Glencoe MRT
The Single rope rescues on big cliffs carrying all the gear from areas like Torridon with long days
Lowers like Skye to the Cairngorms were extremely risky. Big carry offs in lousy weather for hours before the helicopters were such an asset. Wet heavy gear that was hard to dry in cold damp village halls. Years of long drives
back to our Base in damp wet clothes often very cold all take its toll. There was no acceptance of PTSD in these days either. I think,and hope things are getting better. .
Yesterday I felt pretty upset I sorted out all my climbing gear . Many bits kit were like old friends “ They had got me out of trouble over the years . I doubt if I will climb again sadly. They went to my local mountaineering club and if the young folk get as much joy as I did they will have so many memories.
I also gave away all my gear for lectures digital projector screen and stand to a youth Organisation. I got a few saying you should sell it but that’s not my way.
Over the years we collect “Stuff” some we rarely use. We should all look at “stuff” we have by all means sell it if that helps you.
I must admit I had a wee cry ( doing a lot of this just now) it’s the end of over 50 years of my life at least hopefully it will be helping others.
Short blog : it was a Wild night again a few slates of the roof. Many will be getting frustrated by the weather. It’s hard to sit and wait but hopefully it will calm down soon.
Read the weather reports and Avalanche information and use caution common sense. Think of those who may have come out and assist you. The Mountain Rescue Teams SARDA and the helicopters.
Today we are again in wild weather the winds are an incredible speed. To me and I have seen the effect of extreme winds its nature in the raw powerful and frightening. Many think they have been out in extreme winds of over 80 mph I doubt that. Few have crawled back at times over the Cairngorms plateau at night roped up. We were on a search and told to search the plateau the winds were picking up and the helicopter was having an epic trying to drop us of before all daylight was gone. It managed and we were left to ourselves in what turned out to be a survival exercise. The two team members with me Sam and Tim were strong. How we made it back I will never know. I have watched 15 stone men blown over by the wind and battered by its power.
I have alway had a huge respect for nature but winds kill. Please be careful stay away from high ground until the weather improves. Remember if something happens lives are at risk to bring you home.
Wind is the only ‘show-stopper’ in the hills. It can rain, snow, shine, be minus 10, plus 20, clear or foggy. None of those things are going to physically stop you on the hill or seriously hinder your progress, but wind can – and does, on a regular basis, particularly during the winter months. Here Heather Morning shares a few thoughts and facts to ensure that you use the wind to your advantage and help you understand how those wind speed numbers on mountain weather forecasts relate to the physical impact on you out on the hill.
The first thing I look for on the mountain weather forecast is the wind direction and speed to ensure that I use the wind to my advantage. For example, if the wind is forecast to come from the south-west, then I want to ensure that when I am on the exposed higher ground I have the wind behind me, helping me along, rather than hindering progress. This is particularly important if precipitation is also forecast, as it’s extremely unpleasant with rain or snow lashing in your face carried on a 30 miles per hour (mph) wind. Far better to have the weather on your back. In addition, battling into a strong wind is very energy-sapping and exposure to wind will be a significant factor in the onset of hypothermia.
Take a look at the table below to check out how different wind speeds will affect progress and balance and remember that wind will always increase with altitude so it’s a good idea to check the mountain-specific forecasts which will give detail of wind speed at different altitudes. The new Met Office Mountain Forecast launched in 2017 will provide both the gust and the average (mean) speed in mph at 300, 600, 900 and 1100 meters above sea level.
It is worthy of note that the highest wind speed recorded at the summit weather station on Cairngorm was an eye watering 176 mph!
It was due to being a mountaineer and a Mountain Rescue Team Leader in my early days I was a risk taker. Not in the climbing sense at first but being over 150 days a years sometimes out in the weather when few would go. It was then a bit of an ego trip others would be getting of the hills and we would keep going.
It developed into winter climbing and we climbed in marginal decisions. How we got away with it was incredible.We had many close calls.
Rescues were different we were tuned to go out no matter what. Someone needed help and that was our job. We helped most of the civilian teams on huge call outs some with great outcomes others not so good. In these days I thought I was invincible.
When I became a Mountain Rescue Team Leader I trained the troops to be able to deal with the wildest conditions. They never let me down. I gave huge responsibility to the youngest leaders and they always had the call on the hill.
Over the years I worried for them just wanting them to come back safe. Only me decided where I would put my team on a search they were my responsibility this was accepted by all the other teams I worked with.
Things change on a mountain very quickly and in extreme weather there is little margin for error. I was never let down. As a leader in a control environment it’s hard to appreciate what the conditions are. I listened to the radio calls and only once did I call them off the hill. It was an extreme avalanche hazard that was building up. It was the correct decision.
When you’re young and at your peak you do think you’re invincible. Your fit strong and can deal with most things. As you mellow you see things differently.
I have spoken to many other leaders over the years. Many have agreed with my views. Nowadays we have rightly a risk culture especially amongst the big organisations. If we had an accident in the mountains a Board of Enquiry was set up. Often it was made up of Senior folk few with mountaineering experience. Of course we need to learn from mistakes but often they were after a scapegoat. I managed to ensure if it was one of ours we had a senior team leader as the expert on the Board. It was a hard thing to get done but we achieved our aims. This I repeat was not to hide from but to learn from mistakes made.
in the end like all the Emergency services you have to think out of the box. If a situation occurs you have to act. Those at times a few off our bosses. Some acfew have the experience to adapt and accept what these are there are doing.
I have made these critical decisions and I know there are safety measures issues. Many are excellent but a few use them to limit their responsibility. This spreads throughout an organisation where fear of blame can be a critical part n decisions.
On a mountain it’s ever changing in bad weather it’s an ever changing scenario which mountaineers are used to.
Yet if you enter a crash scene you have to check if there are lives to save. This is not easy like in the Chinook crash on the Mull of Kintyre where 29 died. That was not easy with limited PPI. The 6 of us agreed to to all our decisions.
I repeat that many organisations have rightly protocols to keep their personnel safe. Also fear of litigation is another worry. Yet the ethos of saving lives is the key factor for volunteer’s.
These volunteers are so incredible they are mostly unpaid. In this self centred world we need to support them. If things go wrong we need to learn from mistakes made. SAR by its nature can be dangerous. As the winter hits the Rescue Agencies are all very busy.
To all who enjoy the wild places stop and think of what risks those who are coming to assist you are taking.
Enjoy the winter and the wild weather but remember the Mountains and wild places will always be there:, there is always another day.
It is wonderful to see those who have given so much are rewarded.
Distinguished Service Award for Tom Gilchrist
18th January, 2024
SARDA Scotland presentedTom Gilchrist with a Distinguished Service Award this weekend for his outstanding contribution over 50 years with Mountain Rescue.
Tom Gilchrist attended his first call-out with Ochils MRT on 17 April 1973. His father was a founding member of the team and Tom joined the Ochils mountaineering club, aged 15, which was where the team drew much of its membership from. He formally joined the team in 1977. Tom was with the team for a few years before his life journey took him away from the area. Working at Loch Eil Outward Bound, Tom joined Lochaber MRT in 1993.
Tom has spent time leading and reconnoitering expeditions around the world. His experience as an avalanche observer for SAIS was put to good use as an inaugural member of the SMR avalanche working group and key instructor on the SMR avalanche courses.
Tom initially came to SARDA as a journalist to cover a story. He very quickly saw the benefits of search dogs and returned the next year as a potential handler, qualifying Orna in 1995 and winning the Madras Trophy to boot. His knowledge and skills of using and training search dogs meant that Tom was quickly invited to be a trainer/ assessor in SARDA Scotland, a post he still holds today. Tom has gone on to qualify two more dogs, Tara in 2007 and Meagaidh in 2016.
He has been a valued member of the training and assessing team for many years. This commitment means attending both days of the monthly training weekend at venues across Scotland and the 4 day annual assessment. In addition, he has attended assessments as an external assessor to some of our sister organisations across Britain and Ireland. Tom has also spent time travelling to Norway to review their search dog processes.
He recently took over puppy school and has been key in progressing the way new handlers are trained, as well as giving up much of his own time outside of training weekends to lead local training sessions for the Lochaber and Glencoe trainees.
Recently, Tom has developed a mobile remote odour distribution module (RODM) which will be of huge benefit in the training of search dogs for human remains, water searches and avalanche work. The device was designed originally by Neil Powell, an extremely experienced dog trainer and handler from Northern Ireland. Tom has collaborated with Neil to advance the technology and mobility of the device. Tom has applied for a social patent for the device.
Tom has been involved with a number of TV productions promoting search dogs, including ’10 puppies and us’, but it will probably be his role in a production for CBeebies called “Dog Squad” with Meagaidh, which stands out the most. The programme highlighted the important roles dogs can play in everyday lives. This has gone a long way to raise the profile of mountain rescue with viewers, young and old, demonstrating what’s involved in mountain rescue and search dogs in particular.
In his 28 years as an operational handler with SARDA Scotland, Tom has attended call-outs all over Scotland and has been involved with many of the significant searches in the Lochaber/ Glencoe area. A member of Lochaber MRT for over 30 years, Tom has lost count of how many call-outs he has attended – he thinks about six or seven hundred!
It is over 50 years since Tom was first involved with Mountain Rescue and he continues to be at the forefront of training and progressing the search and rescue dogs.
On behalf of everyone at Scottish Mountain Rescue and the independent mountain rescue teams of Lochaber and Glencoe, we’d like to say a massive thank you to Tom for his incredible contribution to mountain rescue in Scotland.
Old ice tools- Chounaird Climax and Chounaird Zero
These axes were incredible for their size they were designed by the great icon of ice climbing Yvonne Chounaird. They were the state of the art at the time.
Bill March the Chief instructor at Glenmore Lodge at the time he did some serious routes with John Cunningham another great climber of that period they pushed front pointing to extremes for that period.
How many have used these I am giving Mick Tighe at the Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection (SMHC) is a unique assortment of mountain memorabilia from Scotland and around the world, which has been cobbled together here on our website in what we hope is a legible and enjoyable format. The site is a living thing as we continue to update, improve and add new acquisitions. So, please take a tour around our virtual museum and let us know if you have any ideas, new information, or indeed any donations.
Many leaders in my view have done the courses on leadership and know the buzz words that Corporations use. Yet it is your job to help especially when one of your team is in trouble. Many problems emerge from a death of a close relative, health, relationships problems and so many others
Trust : if one of your team needs help listen , don’t think as some leaders do. Don’t think I have listened now get on with it. The organisation if it’s worth working for should ensure that you are given the help needed.
As I say to my grandaughter put in “your listening years” listen and give them an open door to speak at anytime. Then act on how you can help them .
Benefits: Most folk going through problems become the most important people in your team once they get fixed.
Pressure: During these crazy days Bosses put huge pressures on their staff. This goes down to managers. There seems to be crazy putting on unachievable pressures to all.
Lessons : I ran two Mountain Rescue Teams and came across so many personal problems in my group. As I aged I got better dealing with them and even today I am still there for many of my teammates. In my “other job” my boss s wonderful lady made me the Welfare Officer for over 150 staff both service and civilian. I learned quickly and enjoyed helping folk.
We live in different times but surely we have good leaders who listen.
Top tips : Leaders listen, take time to help do not just tick it off, keep your eye on them of course it may take time but you will be rewarded.
Everyone: When I was working flat out for years I gave my life to what I was doing at the time.
Folk spoke to me gave me great advice did I listen? The best was “ you are like a light bulb and and when it burns out it is thrown away” and replaced by another!
Things that matter : family, health, well being, kindness and humanity.
Now my wee piece on Zero Gully reminded me of a fun day on Waterfall Gully on Carn Dearg Ben Nevis. It was first climbed by a group of National Service climbers based in the RAF Mountain Rescue Team at Kinloss. They were a real band of good climbers at the time. First ascent in 1959 in early January: D.Pipes, J.Alexander. I.Clough. R.Shaw and A Flegg over 2 days in early January. They did many routes on the Ben especially in winter and over the years I did so many.
The weather on Ben Nevis can be fickle and often when we ran our annual winter course we were met by high winds. When the big routes were out due to weather we usually managed to get a route lower down. We still had to be careful especially after heavy snow as getting to the climbs could be taxing. I was always aware of avalanche danger especially from above. Years of climbing and searching on Call outs on the Ben gave me some great local knowledge. You always learned especially on the Ben..I knew the danger areas fairly well but you never knew what may be above you.
I was in the middle of ending a long term relationship I was still upset as was my friend Dougie Crawford. Now Dougie was a great character so quick with his sarcasm. We took a few days off work mid week and headed for the Ben. The forecast was poor with heavy snow and big winds. We wandered up to the CIC hut in the early morning there was no one there the weather had chased them away. We had fresh food a chicken etc with us we would not be hungry.
We arrived early saw the snow that was fallen and yet we wanted to clear our heads. I mentioned that Waterfall Gully may be possible at least the icefall start that was clearly there. We dumped our gear in the hut and headed up to the route. A good sign was the ice falls nearby were looking good but there was waves of spindrift about and fresh snow falling. We would have to be careful just getting to the route.
Dougie broke the snow it was really collecting below the cliff. We geared up Dougie wanted to lead the first pitch. There was lots of spindrift coming down I found a good belay as sheltered as I could. Off he went it was steep that day and with the spindrift now mini avalanches. I was watching him and half way up they were getting worse.
He was looking for some advice and I said “ Dougie straight on up we have little to live for” we were both going through break ups in our relationships.? He moved up sending tons of ice down and then he was out of view.
I could not hear him I had said there were pegs on the wall on the right. I was expecting Dougie to come flying of despite a few bits of protection. Then at last the big 3 tugs on the rope came. I left the belay as I feared how much snow was coming down. I managed to get up to the belay after lots of ice and snow falling knocking me off my feet on one occasion.
On arriving at the belay I said let’s get out of here. Dougie was fed up but agreed as the gully would be very dangerous. The routev continues through some great and wonderful rock architecture not often seen by the hordes on the Ben. The snow was funnelling down so we abseiled off.
The approach to the route was now full of snow I kept the rope on using the wall for a bit of protection. We could hear the avalanches roaring down and were so glad to reach the safety of the hut.
Big Avalanche late 70’s
We were met in the hut by two others climbers they were “well known”seemingly but not by us. They were impressed by our wee jaunt but had a plan to do something bigger. They said they still had time to get a climb in. They were not impressed by my warning of avalanches as they “were used to them “ off they went.
Myself and Dougie had a laugh at them and settled down to an easy night in the hut. We ate well had a few drams and our well known climbers were not back as darkness fell. There was little could do as the weather and heavy snow was falling.
Later in the night two chastised climbers arrivef after an epic. We made them tea as they got their frozen gear off. Dougie was great with his sarcasm he is a local boy. Then we sat round chatting about massive searches on the Ben over the years.
The Ben had spanked them and been kind we left next morning they were both fast asleep. That weekend we did several big avalanches helping the local teams. Sadly it was recoveries. W
Similar conditions
I used Waterfall gully ice pitches a lot in the future. To many it was an first excursion onto steep ice. Round the corner is the Curtain a grand climb that can be busy,
We had some crazy days chasing old Clough routes and the old Kinloss boys routes over the years. Our eyes opened to the vastness of this great mountain and it gave great experience of the different features of the Ben.
Since these days the Ben is so busy with all the routes being run up. Modern gear, training etc make winter climbing so popular. Yet use all the tools you need the Avalanche forecasts good weather forecast and remember getting up the route is only part of the day.
Big thanks to Dougie for some grand days on the mountains and his keen wit no matter how famous you thought you were.
The Great Snow and Ice Climbs of the British Isles
Ken Wilson,Dave Alcock
Ice climbing generates tales of gripping drama and this book (in the same anthology / guidebook / photo format as the rock-climbing and mountain-walking titles) is, perhaps, the most exciting book of its era.
We took a copy to Canada on our magnificent trip ice climbing in 1984 and gave it too the Alpine Club at Canmore. I hope it’s still there. We came back despite our primitive ice gear with lots of confidence. I had done a lot of classics on Ben Nevis all the winter ridges, Green Gully, Comb Gully, Hadrians Wall plus several others. Yet this was another experience.
Zero Gully
Zero Gully : First ascent : Feb 1957 Hamish MacInnes, T.W.Patey, & A. G Nichol. Zero Gully North Face of Ben Nevis 1000 feet grade 5
“A serious exposed climb with POOR Belays. Exposed to Spindrift Avalanches , requires a good build up of snow and ice and a hard frost. In in consolidated snow or melt conditions this route can be particularly hazardous.” Alan Fyfe from Cold Climbs”
The history of the climb is immense and along with Point 5 gives the Ben its immense world wide popularity.
My mate the late Mark “Cheeky Sinclair”wanted to climb Zero Gully and I said I would go mid week. He was climbing well soling a lot of big routes as he found partners hard to get. He must have to ask me. We were going to Canada ice climbing he said it would be great training.
We left Forres early 0400 we had the key to the track and headed up the Ben. As always the track was muddy yet we were soon up at the CIC hut in these days we were very fit. We were below the route no one about Mark soon had the rope sorted I had no time to think. The history of this route is vast with at the time poor protection and belays. Mark was soon away spindrift was falling and he cruised the first pitch. I came up and had broken my pick of my ice axe. There was no way we were going down he just smiled . Mark led the next pitch and with limited protection and a poor belay. He was in full control and in his loving it.
My axes we’re Chounaird zeros :
The Book Cold Climb’s opened my eyes to some of the classic routes of that period. I started ticking the easier ones at the time. I loved the essays that introduced each route. The history enthralled me.
More spindrift was coming down but Mark was in his element. It was bitter cold so I still managed to climb as fast as I could. Then we had a bit of an epic Mark also broke a pick he climbed on to a better belay. I was shocked when I saw his axe. There was one more serious pitch “shock Mark said I could lead” I double checked the belay it was as good as can be. Then I remembered on my wee rucksack I had a Terrodactal axe as a back up. By now it was glasses of and head up.
I was way out of my confidence levels but somehow I got up climbing slowly and making sure my ice axes were in and my crampons were solid There was a bit of poor ice I did a bit of praying promised I would be good but I managed to find a belay and Mark was soon at my belay. All the way up I was remembering the fantastic article by Tom Patey of the first ascent. I ensured my axes were in that great this as the axe hit the ice so comfortable a feeling. The pitches were embedded in my head. I was also aware that I felt tired I needed to concentrate. The final slopes are where folk make mistakes and we had assisted on many recoveries with Lochaber MRT. We moved together I insisted on the odd runner and the snow was falling heavy the spindrift was getting worse. At last we reached the cornice which was slabby. I was so glad to be on the plateau the weather was getting worse. No time to celebrate and get down 4 gully and back to the CIC hut. We had not drunk or eaten for 6 hours.
We got down safely I could not believe how tired I felt it was the concentration. Mark was so powerful and loved these types of routes. The walk out was hard but soon we were at the forest. We chatted all the way home. Mark went back next and soled the Orion Face. I was tired and back at work.
I will , like most days on the Ben I never forget them. Great companions immense routes helping on Rescues but also climbing way above my capabilities at times. Meeting heroes on routes and some of the stars of that era.
Nowadays folk run up these routes with all the modern gear or solo it and I think some can lose respect for those in 1957. Yet the Ben can sort you out in a second. They’re still big undertakings but what adventures. Enjoy the winter, sadly I doubt I will be climbing again with my body falling apart.
A few years ago Hamish MacInnes told me the tale of the first ascent. It was as he said it was his route and I was enthralled by the story. His memory was incredible I was so honoured to he told the tale .
Why no photos ? I was so scared I never took one and the spindrift was so wild at times.
You have to enjoy every day I managed a walk to Cummingston first time for weeks. It felt great just to get out in the fresh air and see the sea and the mountains in the distance.
Comments and photos welcome.
Blog dedicated to Mark “Cheeky” Sinclair a great character sadly no longer with us.
MEET OUR LEGENDS 🏔️ 🥳 Celebrating Excellence in Mountain Culture
Come along on Thursday 15th of February to kick start the weekend and help us celebrate our 20th birthday with a night of inspiring stories, a complimentary nip of Gin from the Highland Liquor Company and live music from Calum MacAskill 🎶 🍸🏔️
From years worth of dedication in mountain rescue to excellence in mountains sports, from writing books to welcoming others into our outdoor spaces, our ambassadors have contributed a wealth of knowledge and expertise to mountain culture in Scotland. For the first time, we will host groups of these special individuals together on stage, sharing stories, adventures, and lifetime experiences – and what lifetimes they have been! Get involved on the night by submitting your questions for their consideration.
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Three weeks After Lockerbie the Kegworth air Disaster
Kegworth Air Disaster it occurred on 8 January 1989, when British Midland Flight BD 92, a Boeing 737 -400 crashed onto the embankment of the MI motorway near Kegworth, Leicestershire, in Britain. The aircraft was attempting to conduct an emergency landing at East Midlands Airport. Of the 126 people aboard, 47 died and 74, including seven members of the flight crew, sustained serious injuries.
Few know that RAF Stafford and RAF Leeming Mountain Rescue Teams were involved. Along with Derby MRT the fire service and ambulances.This times lives were saved as the Mountain Rescue assisted getting injured people out of the aircraft – this was 3 weeks after being involved in Lockerbie. They used ropes to secure the plane and with their stretchers assisted many casualties. This is rarely talked about but this time unlike Lockerbie they saved lives.
I will never forget what they did and am so proud of what they achieved.
It’s sad news sorry to pass this on but we lost Elma Scott from Crianlarich yesterday. She lived long hard life looked after us all over the years. I had only spoken to her two days ago and she was more worried about my health than her own.
I was honoured to know her for over 50 years she was renowned for her hospitality. You could arrive anytime at her wee house and be looked after. We did many a big call out with Killin MRT over the years and she was always there for us. To many she was our other Mum.
Straightforward, straight talking and if you made a mistake she was there to keep you right. She guided many of us over the years. She was a true Highland lady. We spoke often I visited her on my way to Ayr many many times.
These are exceptionally difficult times and I will update the funeral arrangement’s when we get them.
I will also try to write a piece on her life. That will be hard.
Elma and Dan
Love each other and though upset Elma is still there for us. We all have great memories of her kindness and love for all of us. The endless homebaking that would be there cramming over 20 into her wee house. The guidance good and bad that we all need to keep us right.
My thoughts are with Mark and the family. I and many are pretty broken just now. I am surrounded by love and kindness so thank you all.
Elma Thank you for keeping us right over 50 years.,Thank you for all you did for us you were so loved by many.
It had been a long few months I was pretty tired after running the Annual RAF Winter Course 2 weeks for me of big worries in Ben Nevis, Glencoe and the Cairngorms. All those young tigers climbing I was often last of the hill after waiting for team members to summit after an epic. That was the job it was exhausting but great to see the young new Team members from all the RAF teams improve and become confident. We also always got involved in Call outs on every course it was a huge learning for all.
The ice falls in the Coire
I was really looking forward to returning to my team at Kinloss. We did not have many epics within the team and heading with a great forecast for the winter. Our Base camp was At Torridon staying at Kinlochewe situated in the far North West with some wonderful mountains and incredible winter climbing. There would be no crowds and a great weekend. Little were we to know.
From the late Martin Moran – Poachers Fall
“There are few climbs develop the status as classics of their region. In Torridon the one big ice route to which every visiting climber aspires is the Poachers Fall of the northern face of Liathach. The tiered Torridonian cliffs have a unique geological disposition for ice formation. The summit cap of Liathach is made of permeable quartzite, but at 900 metres this meets the banded cliffs of sandstone. All the drainage that filters through the quartz is forced outwards to form spring-lines over the sandstone cliffs. With progressive freezing during winter these form into trails of ice up to 150 metres high. Poachers Fall is the central spring-line in Coire Dubh Mor, forming a compelling plunge of silvery ice at the focal point of an amphitheatre of cliffs, and is a benchmark of grade V climbing.
The climb was first ascended by Andy Nisbet and Richard McHardy in 1978. Andy was then twenty five years old, at the start of his illustrious climbing career, and beginning to venture out of Aberdonian homelands in search of new routes. Richard McHardy is one of climbing’s most colourful characters, operating at the cutting edge of extreme climbing as part of the Alpha group in Manchester in the early 1970’s. The story goes that Richard had agreed to do the climb with another partner but presented with Andy’s availability at short notice broke his commitment; hence the guilt-tinged name. A winter classic has its attendant risks and challenges. The location is inspiringly remote, the climbing is sustained for four pitches at or near-vertical and the exit slopes are exposed and prone to avalanche. There have been serious accidents here, but Poachers Fall held a certain cachet for the more ambitious mountain guides.”
We had a big team over that weekend and there was so much to do. The great hills like Beinn Alligin, Liathach and Ben Eighe full of great snow and ice. We had just a group of our team winter climbing in Canada. They were all climbing well full of confidence and as the young feel invincible.
Two of the Canada boys wanted to climb The Classic Poachers Fall on Liathach. Everyone was away early the forecast mentioned a change of weather coming in later in the afternoon. I saw a possible route nearby and we had crampons and ice axes out from the path.
We could not see our boys as we were hidden by a ridge. They were climbing well as they had left before us. Then the leader fell on brittle ice about 60 feet His axes pulled and he whistled by the belay. He was held by the belayer on 3 ice screws. Over the radio came some terrible swearing that the leader was dead. I was shocked and we told him to go to our own military frequency. Soon we heard our leader was okay but had broken an ankle.
They were high up the route our injured man climbed to the belay and the shaken belayer led the last pitch which was steep and the ice very brittle. They asked for help and we bailed of our route my heart was pounding. We had to really strong troops on Liathach and they said they would see what they could do. It’s a long way off with a man who can hardly walk. Even to get on the ridge was serious. I called our Control and asked for a helicopter. The weather was coming in. “He is a hardy man from Huddersfield. I heard a scrambled message by radio from Andy and you could feel the fear in the voice. God knows what was going through his mind as his pal flew past him and the belay started to fail?” My diary.
The two on Liathach managed to descend the avalanche slopes and locate the route and assisted with a top rope. They did well. Next thing was the Sea King coming in and they called and said they would have to be quick as the mist was rolling in. Of course they pulled out the stops watching the smokes getting fired to get the wind surrounded by the Liathach ridge it was spell binding.
SMC Journal – 16 February 1991 – RAF Kinloss Mountain Rescue Team Member fell 60 feet near the top of Poachers Fall grade 5 ice climb on Liathach Torridon. Recovered to the summit with an injured ankle by his own efforts and party. R137 recovered casualty to hospital in changing weather. A bit of an epic !
Worth noting 2 of the 3 ice-screws failed and only 1 held the faller. Always though it’s difficult have a good belay..
They coped well with what could have been a disaster. I called out the Torridon Team as back up and of course the helicopter. Take as much help as you can if they’re capable.
Thanks to all especially the party on Liathach and the helicopter for some great flying.
I got some great feedback from my piece on Leadership. It great to read them especially from the those who were young and what they learned from their experiences.
Team Work – many learned from this key skill. Often few had never worked or depended on others. You soon learn in a bad weather day that we were looking after each other. Especially when carrying a stretcher for several hours across the hill with a live casualty. This makes it all worth it and you feel you do not want to let your team mates down.
Training – the key skills learned last for life, From Fitness , casualty care, radio skills. Basic mountain skills, Technical rescue and so many others. It was great to see especially young folk develop into incredible folk.
Thank you all
Many were young and the mountains take no prisoners. They developed as sound mountaineers they lead hill parties at a young age once they proved their compancy . It was a great feeling to see a young person take his or her first hill party or rock climbing and return beaming with joy.
Team leaders / Deputies course – these improved over the years. At Lockerbie 4 Team leaders were involved despite all being different we through out training did our best and many lessons were learned which proved invaluable. These are a must as the lessons learned by previous team leaders were spoken about. This included mistakes made a huge teaching point.
Working with the Senior Ranks: in the old days we would have one man in charge at MOD and every team had an officer In Charge! Over the years we had good and bad but most became like the team members and fought their case. I was never shy to tell RAF Officers , Police etc that we were the experts in our field and to listen and learn. In the end I made enemies especially within the military but it worked for me. These team members were my responsibility and I backed them 100% Loyalty is a great attribute.
There are so many who helped me great leaders all different from George Bruce my first Team Leader, Ray Sumshine Sefton , Pete McGowan, Tom Taylor, Don Shanks, Jim Craig
Al Haveron plus folk Like Hamish in Glencoe, Peter Cliff in Cairngorm, Billy Stitt at Killin, Gerry Ackroyd from Skye, Phil Jones at Assynt, Eoghain McLean Torridon and Graham Gibb at Breamar. Great folk from SARDA all over the Uk they were years ahead with many female handlers and some incredible Police all over. The Borders Teams also were incredible at Lockerbie we made so many great friend’s over the years. Having joint exercises with other teams enriched all our experience and this meant so much over the years. Also the Deputies like Dan Carrol, Raz Frew, Mark Hartree, and so many others many who have their time and support. Families have been so supportive it’s only recently they have been appreciated.
Outside Agencies – During my period as Team Leader I gave over 30 years working with the Then called Mountain Rescue Committee. I ensured many attended there courses where skills were shared and new ones learned. We also used Glenmore Lodge to teach the better climbers increased climbing skills. This gave great confidence and was well worth it. Add in Casualty Care Courses and many others. The great thing the team mixed with so many others and bonds were made. This is in my mind the way forward.
Looking after your team mates old and young. Over the years a few have had problems we must do what we can to support them. Many have done so much sadly they go off the radar over the years. Never forget what they did for others and keep an eye on each other
Conclusions : I never knew we had such an effect on so many especially so many young folk course we made mistakes that’s life Overall we did our best and it’s great to hear from folk from the past and how life is for them. Many have done well and tell me their experiences gave them great satisfaction and confidence that served them well.
Comments welcome as always these are after my last piece.
Ally – Fantastic Heavy, for many in mountain rescue leadership is a natural progression in being able to go out and do the job for the casualty and do so while focused on the safety of team members DEMONSTRATING A NATURAL CAPABILITY to look after, inform and mentor them. It’s about the use of different skills that make a team and enable it to function. They are not often the actual team leader.
I’ve done a lot of leadership training and delivery. The thing is leadership is never about being the best, its about knowing you’re shit and knowing who in you’re team knows the other shit, you dont and where to go and who to call to get the job done.
And being blunt here, leadership is never about your own public image. It’s about what’s best for the purpose you are a leader for. Self-awareness is vital; self-promotion or your self plc is toxic.
As MR embraces its generational shift over recent years; it has to remember the focus is on the delivery that being in our case bringing a casualty home to their relatives, hopefully safely, but always with compassion and sensitivity of all involved.
Wider society has a deranged view of leadership. A leadership course delivered by the Navy while at uni i was on years ago hit it home to me by teaching about sharing knowledge, taking responsibility, having humility, reflection and the focus on the common purpose. A top leader rarely wants it. he should earn it. I sometimes wonder if society gets Another great and thought provoking piece Heavy. Like Graham, I was given party leader but mine well before normally expected. We were short of party leaders and Peter Kirkpatrick mentored us brilliantly. It was amazing, on reflection, how we could be daft young numpties socialising and swimming each other but a soon as the call out happened instant, focused and hard working professionals! Those formative years at Linton then Valley left me with a completely new outlook and appreciation of good leadership. Like Heavy I started questioning and enquiring which led to an expectation that those in leadership or promoted posts would have our best interests at heart. That has been learning experience and I’m not as naive as that young 22yr old. I feel very fortunate to have joined RAFMRT and it helped me to form the rest of my life and care for others. Lastly we saw this passed on within the teams but also with past members. It would be nice to see all that experience linked into the current system, without the swimmings of course! 🤣
Its interesting that the helicopter SAR unit suporting the Leuchars MRT also worked with the ‘no rank’ policy. In the military environment many senior Station officers found this policy alien and had to be ‘educated’ into its benefits !George
Graham
I agree Heavy about being given leadership roles at an early age. I went from trialist and nov at 17 to party leader at 19. It was the first time anyone had given me that much responsibility. Spoons asking me did so much for my confidence and has influenced all my other leadership roles in life.
Lwythr
Another great and thought provoking piece Heavy. Like Graham, I was given party leader but mine well before normally expected. We were short of party leaders and Peter Kirkpatrick mentored us brilliantly. It was amazing, on reflection, how we could be daft young numpties socialising and swimming each other but a soon as the call out happened instant, focused and hard working professionals! Those formative years at Linton then Valley left me with a completely new outlook and appreciation of good leadership. Like Heavy I started questioning and enquiring which led to an expectation that those in leadership or promoted posts would have our best interests at heart. That has been learning experience and I’m not as naive as that young 22yr old. I feel very fortunate to have joined RAFMRT and it helped me to form the rest of my life and care for others. Lastly we saw this passed on within the teams but also with past members. It would be nice to see all that experience linked into the current system, without the swimmings of course! 🤣
If you have watched the program on the Post Office what a brilliant presentation gram yet to me it’s a tragedy . It is a brilliant drama of what really happened and the effect on those blamed by the Powers that be.
The programme it’s on ITV and it shows the way folk were treated is appalling. Still sadly
no one is held to account for the decisions made. Huge Companies lied throughout and at last there is a petition to sign that may give this Government a kick where they need it. So many lives lost life’s broken, homes lost and families torn apart.
This country is now so corrupt at all levels and none is ever made accountable. We need to change this now .
As for the Honours list Paula Vennells has a CBE what a joke .
Please sign the petition it may help get those involved punished and those who remain given compensation and a small part of their lives back.
Due to my health I have been reading a lot books give me such joy especially “ The Shinning Mountain “
Changabang is a mountain in the GarhwalHimalaya of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many significant climbs. It does not have a high topographic prominence, being slightly lower than its near neighbour Kalanka to the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity, but its steep rocky profile has made it a more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate. Changabang loosely translated means “shining mountain” in Hindi
It is 42 years ago that Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker went missing on Everest on the then called “Unclimbed ridge” As I was researching years later for my expedition to Tibet I would get great views of this ridge. Tibet in 1982 was so different then. Pete and Joe never used Oxygen and were by then incredibly brilliantly mountaineers. They had climbed several 8000 metre peaks Alpine style.
Pete had agreed to speak to the Moray Mountaineering Club Anniversary years ago , I was sent a photo of it. Pete and Joe were two of my heroes. They later both died on the North East Ridge. I had met Pete many years ago in the Cairngorms on several occasions and found him such an unassuming person and always ready for a chat. He was working for Glenmore Lodge at the time.
Pete and the Moray Mountaineering club.
I really got to lnow him on a day winter climbing on Hells Lum Chimney. He was behind myself and Mick Trimby. I was on the crux when the weather hit us. Next minute Pete was next to me and said he would go ahead and sort out a belay. He did leaving gear in for me. At the top His two students were struggling and we shared breaking the snow and navigating on a wild Cairngorm night. It was hard going but by sharing the trail we reached the spot height 1141. He asked me how I could climb in my glasses my reply “badly” That night he made a big impression on me and was impressed when my radio asked if we were okay. I said I was with Glenmore Lodge and you could hear the sighs of relief.
Next year Pete was in the big mountains and became a household name. Both Pete and Joe became outstanding writers.
He summitted Everest on the huge South West Face in 1975 and very soon after this climbed the massive West Wall on Changabang with Joe Tasker a massive undertaking for a two-man expedition with no Sherpa support. It was a breakthrough of gigantic proportions in Alpine Himalayan climbing at that time. His book The Shinning Mountain is a classic of what their mindset the commitment, pain, suffering and ambition to defy all the rules involving climbing technical unclimbed Himalayan peaks
Pete in 1982 and Joe both went missing trying the “unclimbed ridge on Everest” they were last seen on a the pinnacles at 8000 metres before the weather came in this was May 1982. It was a typical audacious Alpine ascent of an unclimbed ridge on Everest, with no Sherpas just a small team of 4 going lightweight and incredible attempt. Pete and Joe are up there, no one will ever know what happened to them but the cold and not using oxygen at such a height makes this a very hard place to live far less climb to that standard.
2001 view of the Unclimbed Ridge.
When I was out in Tibet in 2001 at Advanced Base Camp on Everest the walk from our advanced Base camp to their camp at 21500 feet is about a mile and the views of the unclimbed ridge are incredible. Very few go there as all are the other expeditions are mainly on the North Ridge. I went out alone on the last day of our expedition and left a dried piece of Heather (brought from home) below this huge ridge and spent some time thinking about Pete, Joe and the others who have been here, what would they have been doing today if they were still alive? What a place to be the only people left were our 6 Sherpas and cook everyone else was gone. I left a wee piece of Cairngorms stone near the start of the ridge in 2001 in Tibet.
Everest Tibet with Russell Brice who completed the pinnacles.
We were tidying up this incredible place and stripping the mountain of us much rubbish left by others that we could. I spent an hour here just looking and taking it all in, an incredible experience, one I will never forget.
History since 1982 Expeditions to the North East Ridge in 1985,[74]1986[75] and 1987[76] failed to reach Boardman and Tasker’s high point. In August 1988, Russell Briceand Harry Taylor succeeded in crossing the Pinnacles, thus completing the unclimbed section of the route, before descending via the North Ridge. They saw no sign of Boardman or Tasker due to heavy monsoon snow cover.
The next expedition on the ridge was in 1992 when a joint Japanese–Kazakhexpedition crossed the Pinnacles but were unable to continue to the summit. They found a body beyond the second pinnacle at approximately 8,200m on the Rongbuk side of the ridge.[78] Photographs taken by Vladimir Suviga[79] and sent to Chris Bonington enabled the body to be identified, from the clothing and features, as Peter Boardman.[80]
In 1995 the complete ridge was climbed by a Japaneseexpedition.[81] They also came across a body which was initially thought to be Joe Tasker.[82] Upon re-examining all the evidence, Chris Bonington concluded that both sightings were of Boardman: “At first it was surmised that this was Joe Tasker, but after carefully comparing the written descriptions and the photographs provided by each expedition, I became convinced that this was the same as the original sighting and therefore that of Pete.”
Many yeas ago I had a long chat with Hamish in Glencoe.He allowed me to tape it, it was a few years before he became ill. Hamish had a wonderful memory and he told me of his early days in Scotland. He hardly stopped taking me through to his National Service and the soling behind the Guides in the alps. His early rescues in the Glencoe and his fight with the authorities to start Mountain Rescues self governing.
Hamish was just finishing pruning trees for a friend in Glen Brittle Skye to give him and his wife a break from the Call-outs in Glencoe. Hamish had seen as the short daylight ended
when he saw someone running alone off the hill. Hamish knew something was wrong and tells the tale.
Three climbers had fallen at the back of the Dubhs Ridge the tale he was told was one is still alive and a climber is with them. This is in the days of no phones on the hill, basic torches for lighting and the middle of winter with lots of ice but little snow. It was New Year 1963?when Hamish set off with his wife and the informant to locate the accident and had called for assistance from the Portree Police Team and RAF Kinloss who were at Fort William for New Year. It would have been a busy time for Kinloss who had dealt with a few callouts already including one for a team member who had broken a leg!
The route
As Hamish says how John Hinde the Team Leader managed to get hold of the team who were scattered to the wind as it was New Year remains a mystery to this day. Hamish also remembered that the Junior Mountaineering Club Of Scotland (JMCOfS) were at Kintail for Hogmanay and were asked to help. These were the days of everyone helping when trouble arrived on the hills. It was dark when Hamish, his wife Cathy and the survivor left and one can only imagine the thoughts as they trudged in over the ridge in very difficult conditions to try to save the injured climber and his companion. How the informant had made another epic trek over the ridge with Hamish is a tale in its own. They searched but could not find any sign of the accident, they were exhausted and the conditions were extremely tricky with ice everywhere. In the end they made their way down to the hut at Coruisk where the rest of the group were staying. Here they found the survivor who told them the grim news and that all the climbers were dead.
The Coruisk hut Skye
With no communications one can only imagine the thoughts of the locals and Police who tried to assist that night. Only a few had crampons and lighting was by Tilly light on serious winter ground. After an epic they also decided to return to Glen Brittle and wait for daylight.
What follows is an epic with a two-day recovery for three climbers killed in the accident. RAF Kinloss MRT and others from the local team arrived at Coruisk by boat and then began as Hamish states a very difficult recovery. Over 35 people were involved to carry the three fatalities off down 2300 feet of the worst terrain in Scotland.
The Dubhs Ridge Skye
The An Garbh Corrie is one of the roughest in Scotland and wild and inhospitable place. Belays were very sparse and conditions incredibly difficult and most of it was done in the dark down icy slabs, with boulders crashing down all the night. Crampons bit on the rocks like broken glass making life incredibly difficult but the recovery was completed and they arrived at back at the hut with the casualties.
These were all strong hard mountaineers all putting their lives on the line for the recovery of the climbers. One can only imagine how the friends of the party felt as they were brought down to the climbing hut at Coruisk and this was an incredible testing time for all. This Callout, though I have just briefly mentioned some of what happened is the one that Hamish remembers and when I interviewed him about it a few years ago he remembered every fact, as clear as day. He knew most of the characters of the Kinloss Team John Hinde was leading the team and recovering from frostbite after a trip to Denali in Alaska. Geordie Patterson, Jack Baines and Ian Sykes were all part of the recovery.
Most mountaineers knew each other and it was a small world as was rescue in these days. They all have told me off this rescue and what memories of the epics of the recovery, most are men who say little after a rescue. What a story of a terrible tragedy and how all the climbing community, locals, climbers, rescuers and Police worked together. The boat came in Coruisk took all the casualties and rescuers back in wild weather.
A great read of early rescues
Hamish remembers that after a few drams some of the team began to sing as the tension from the rescue wore off. This is all part of the way team member’s cope with a tragedy on the mountains. Get hold of “Callout” and read the full account. I have done several rescues in this area with the Skye Team in the past and as WH Murray states “An Garbh Corrie is one of the wildest Corries in Scotland”
We nowadays have all the equipment, navigational aids and even so the communications can be very difficult without helicopters in poor weather in these wild corries are still an extremely serious place to be.
These folk involved were truly hard mountain people. We follow in the footsteps of heroes.
Comments as always welcome.
Call-out is the definitive collection of tales about early mountain rescue in the Highlands of Scotland from Hamish MacInnes – Everest pioneer and arguably the most famous Scottish mountaineer of the twentieth century. In the late 1960s, MacInnes led the Glencoe Mountain Rescue team and together they developed innovative techniques and equipment in order to save lives – often risking their own in the process – whether night or day, and always at a moment’s notice. He was a central figure in the rescue during the 1963 New Year tragedy in the Cuillins on the Isle of Skye, and led groundbreaking rescues on Buichaille Etive Mor , Ben Nevis , Bidean nam Bian and many other legendary Scottish mountains. At the heart of the stories in Call-out are the unique characters in the team and wider Glencoe community who demonstrate faultless camaraderie, and – by virtue of MacInnes’s engaging storytelling – inject an almost comical slant into these sometimes-grim accounts of misadventure in the mountains. The dark allure of the frozen Scottish peaks provides a foreboding backdrop against which we learn of Hamish MacInnes’s concern for human life under even the most extreme conditions. Call-out offers an inspiring portrayal of responsible and dedicated mountaineering practice, which is as pertinent today as ever.
Happy Christmas and thanks for all the messages and kindness. Be good to those you love and spare a thought for all those in the Emergency Agencies who are looking after us all. Never forget without their family support we would not have these wonderful services.
Thee very important people in my life. xx
Look after those you love abs those who have little. It’s a time to give as well as receive and remember the good kind folk out way the bad.
Love to all especially those very dear to me. I am lucky to have so many looking after me.
Thank you Kalie your a star that burns very brightly x
From Mountaineering Scotland “An Teallach path project wins €60,000 European Outdoor Conservation Association (EOCA) grant All photos mountaineering Scotlandp no
We’re delighted to announce that It’s Up to Us – the three-year partnership conservation project from Mountaineering Scotland and the Outdoor Access Trust for Scotland has been awarded a €60,000 grant from The European Outdoor Conservation Association (EOCA).
The path maintenance and habitat restoration project on An Teallach, the popular Munro above Dundonnell in Wester Ross, is one of four international conservation projects to receive a total of €180,000 in the charity’s latest funding round.
This generous grant brings the fundraising total for It’s Up to Us to over £200,000. The current total, two thirds of the £300,000 project budget, secures essential contract works on An Teallach until at least May 2025.
Lee Craigie, outdoor ambassador and adventurer, wins top mountain award.
This is so well deserved and great to see.
Organisers of The Fort William Mountain Festival are delighted to announce that Lee Craigie, mountain bike adventurer and cross country mountain bike racer, nomadic storyteller, author, outdoor therapist, award winning film maker, campaigner for active travel, and champion for women in the outdoors, is the 17th recipient of the Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture, sponsored by JAHAMA Highland Estates.
Born in Glasgow to a sporting family, Lee Craigie has always had a passion for exploration and adventure in the outdoors and for promoting its physical and mental health benefits. It was the driving force behind her outdoor education degree and a three year Post Graduate Training in Child and Adolescent Psychotherapy.
In her early career Lee worked as a technical mountaineering guide in the USA and Australia, as an outdoor instructor and group facilitator for Colorado Outward Bound, as an outreach worker for Fairbridge Edinburgh, and as a freelance outdoor instructor for Local Education Authority centres, and for Ratho, Venture Trust, Radical Outdoors, and Venture Scotland.
While working for the Highland Council’s pupil support service in 2007, Lee Craigie founded Cycletherapy. She delivered cycle training to marginalised young people in the Scottish Highlands until 2010. Since then, Cycletherapy has continued to work effectively one to one with young people excluded from school using mountain bike riding and mechanics to reengage them with education or training.
Having begun mountain biking to relieve the pressures of secondary school, Lee went on to become a successful cross country mountain bike racer. In 2009 she won both the Scottish Series and Scottish Championship titles. Between 2010 and 2014 she turned professional, winning the British Mountain Bike Championship in 2013. Her successful racing career continued as a member of Team GB at World and European Championships and Team Scotland at the 2014 Commonwealth Games.
Lee recognised the secret to her sporting success lay in her love of exploring big mountains by bike, always fascinated by the places we can all take ourselves to emotionally and physically by pushing our perceived limits in wild places.
It led her to set up The Adventure Syndicate in 2016. The not-for-profit organisation is a collective of female adventurers of all ages who work collaboratively to help one another in pursuit of a common outcome: to enable more people to experience the mental, physical, and environmental benefits of adventuring, exploring the outdoors, connecting to nature, and moving sustainably for the good of their health and happiness and that of the environment. The organisation also arranges gatherings of women and girls, focused on outdoor adventure and exploration, to increase levels of self-belief and confidence, and to enable them to acknowledge their capabilities and potential.
Between 2019 and 2022 Lee took on the role of Scotland’s first Active Nation Commissioner. As an official representative of walking, cycling and physical activity across the nation Lee supported the promotion of a new infrastructure to encourage more people to become more physically active. Building on this three-year posting Lee was appointed as Scotland’s Ambassador for Active Travel, an independent of Government engagement role from 2022 to 2023. Championing diverse and inclusive participation in active travel and active travel decision-making, she offered a strong, trusted, and impartial voice to broaden and deepen the public conversation. This led to her being awarded an Honorary Fellowship of the Royal Scottish Geographical Society in 2021.
On hearing the news of winning the Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture, Lee Craigie said: “As if mountains themselves have not given me enough over the years, I was deeply honoured to learn I was the recipient of the coveted Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture from Fort William Mountain Festival in 2024.
“Wild places have always offered me perspective, gratitude, and calm. Their consistency and timelessness continue to ground me in this fast paced and ever-changing world, and I am passionate about ensuring more people can connect with them and access them in respectful ways. In doing so, we connect with ourselves, our past and our collective future and it’s events like FWMF that ensure more and more people from diverse backgrounds have these opportunities. Thank you so much for recognising my efforts and I hope to see some of you on a hillside one day soon.”
Tom Uppington, Managing Director, Alvance British Aluminium, sponsor of the Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture, commented: “As the regular sponsors of this prestigious award for Excellence in Mountain Culture, we are absolutely thrilled that Lee Craigie has been recognised for her inspirational work and tireless devotion to encouraging the public to access walking, cycling and physical activity across Scotland.
“JAHAMA Highland Estates [part of Alvance British Aluminium, based in Lochaber] greatly values the hugely significant impact of Lee’s dedication to ensuring marginalised young people from across the Scottish Highlands have access to high quality cycle training, and her work with the Adventure Syndicate which inspires adolescent girls to be physically active. Our own company roots can be traced back to cycle manufacturing and being based here in the Outdoor Capital of the UK, Lee’s selfless contribution to inspiring the next generation of future cyclists, resonates strongly with our own company values of family, change and sustainability.”
Lee Cragie collectionLee Craigie collectionLee Cragie photo Dave McLeod
Lee Craigie is an award-winning filmmaker having documented her experience riding the length of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, from Banff to New Mexico, 2,745 miles of ultra-endurance bikepacking.
Lee also presented and co-produced three series of Life Cycle – conversations from the seat of a bike. For this series she jumped on her bike going in search of well-known Scottish figures, experts, and even family, to give her a few lessons in how to live a richer, more rewarding, happier, and healthier life.
As an author Lee Craigie’s first book has just been published. In Other Ways to Win she tells her story of discovering the freedom of cycling while at school, of her journey to becoming a national mountain bike champion and her life after racing on cycling adventures around the world and encouraging other women through her work with the Adventure Syndicate.
Lee is also the founder of the Velocity Café and Bicycle Workshop, a social enterprise that includes a vegetarian café, a bicycle workshop and a range of projects to promote health, wellbeing and sustainability, in Inverness, and founder and director of the Cargo Bike Movement, a charity set up informally during Covid, bringing together cargo bikes and volunteers to respond to food insecurity experienced by many across the city of Edinburgh.
The prestigious Scottish Awards for Excellence in Mountain Culture recognise the achievements and accomplishments of inspiring individuals and their outstanding contributions to Scotland’s outdoor culture, encompassing sport, theatre, art, photography, film and literature.
The award was set up in 2008 by the Highland Mountain Culture Association Ltd, organisers of the Fort William Mountain Festival. The 2023 Award is sponsored by JAHAMA Highland Estates. The Youth Award, established in 2015, is sponsored by UHI North, West and Hebrides (School of Adventure Studies).
Previous Recipients of The Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture are:
2023 – David ‘Heavy’ Whalley MBE BEM
2022 – Karen Darke
2021 – Dave Morris
2020 – Colin Prior
2019 – Noel Williams
2018 – Cameron McNeish
2017 – Dr Hamish Brown MBE
2016 – Mick Tighe
2015 – Robin Campbell
2014 – Andy Nisbet
2013 – Myrtle Simpson DL
2012 – Dr Adam Watson
2011 – Ian ‘Spike’ Sykes MBE
2010 – Jimmy Marshall
2009 – Richard Else
2008 – Dr Hamish MacInnes OBE BEM
Previous Recipients of The Scottish Youth Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture are:
2023 – Stephanie McKenna
2022 – Kirsty Muir
2021 – Mikayla Parton
2020 – Tim Miller
2019 – Rob Cochrane
2018 – Shauna Coxsey
2017 – Robert Mackenzie
2016 – Natalie Berry
2015 – Zeki Basan
The Fort William Mountain Festival 2024 runs from Thursday 15 to Sunday 18 February 2024. Most events take place at The Nevis Centre, An Aird, Fort William PH33 6AN, as well as some satellite venues in and around the bustling Highland town of Fort William, at the heart of the ‘Outdoor Capital of the UK’.
Festival tickets can sell out in advance, particularly for the popular nights. Please book early.
The festival attracts approaching 1500 people over the four days and takes place each February in and around the town of Fort William at the heart of the Outdoor Capital of the UK.
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Many will have read my previous blogs on Lockerbie it changed my life on 21st December 1988. It was a tragedy out of all comprehension and I and many others still suffer mostly in silence about the effects of seeing 270 souls dead and not being able to help anyone. My heart grieves still for those lost and how so many suffered across the World and Lockerbie.
I was the Mountain Rescue Team leader of Leuchars in Fife. Thank god we were only there for three days. We l had 4 other RAF Mountain Rescue Teams there. We with others located over 160 fatalities at first light plus the black box and lots of wreckage. We were a young but strong people many had seen death in the mountains on many occasion’s and aircraft crashes. Nothing compared this to Lockerbie. The people of Lockerbie were wonderful to us and I owe them so much.
We were all dealing with the unknown and along with the local Mountain Rescue Teams and SARDA it was like a visit to hell. We were pulled out after 3 days getting back on 23 December. I wrote reports through out the night for the “powers that be.”. All night many of the married team members came into my office broken and upset. I tried to help each one at a personal cost to me.
It was then Christmas we were back in the mountains and had a huge amount of amount of team members out. Many I know now could not speak to wives, families and friends.
I asked at the time for Physiological help and was told “to man up”and upset many by my request. We had a physiological team visit us it was early day days of trying and looking after folk and helping them deal with our problems.
Over the years at least three quarters of my team have contacted me about the effect on them many recently. I also get lots of emails from the local civilian teams from retired troops about their struggle. Add in The Search and Rescue Dogs handlers from all over UK, the Army, Police and Fire brigade plus other agencies the toll on us all is awful. Most were unpaid volunteer’s who still struggle.
The effect on me over the years has been awful this week is a tough dark time. If I am ill the horrors come back nightly. I like many become upset and at times I feel I let my folk from all Agencies down.
The final part was when I left the RAF in 2007 I was given a medical at home as I had several long term injuries due to my service. The man who came to my house to access me at the end said “how did you get PTSD as you were a cook” In the end I received a small cash settlement, I appealed and got no where, I gave it up there was no fight left.
This is not a cry for help I can cope things are a bit better but as I age it still hurts.
Please at this time think of those who are struggling be there for them and give them a hug. Various agencies are about to assist many are maxed out as this country has neglected so many over the years. I met so many from all services involved who contact me please do. You are not forgotten by those who care.
Last night I took a late call “ he said it had taken 35 years for me to acknowledge how Lockerbie affected me.”’Your frankness over the years made me seek help. My long suffering wife and family now understand what happened. Life will never be the same but I can cope. Thank you for helping others, I was at the time one of your critics. Thank God you tried to explain your feelings. Stay well and keep going”
From my diary “We had just had a great wedding for one of the team. It was Sept 1983 . Next day a few of us headed over to Creag Dubh at Newtonmore. A steep serious roadside cliff near Newtonmore.”
Pam and Jock after a big fall from the Hill at Creag Dubh.
The Hill : The date Sept 1983 the photo above is of my pals Pam and Jock had agreed to climb together Jock was just back from a few years in North Wales and was pushing his climbing. Pam though very young was bold he fell on a route called the Hill Creag Dubh was known as “Creag Death “ by the team.
On the cliff most of the climbing was fairly hard and in these days there was not great protection. We had just been at a Team wedding nearby and next day we decided to climb. It’s a very steep cliff but we were all trying to push our grades. I was climbing on a great route called The Brute.
The Hill Creag Dubh – 55m, 2 pitches. Start at some rust-coloured rock above the big flat boulder. Climb up directly past a poor peg (bold) to a small groove, and continue into a small niche. Either head right to the big triangular niche of Inbred to belay, or even better, move left and slightly down to another niche then more or less directly up the wall to join the final section of Inbred, giving a sustained 45m pitch.
Update May 2019: The crucial peg is bent and suspicious.”
It was sunny the crag was busy my mate Jock Pirrie was climbing with a young Paul (Pam) Ayers. . Both were climbing well. They were on a route called the Hill a famous test piece at that’ timebnow E2 first climbed by K. Spence and J.Porteous in Sept 1966.
I was climbing with Bruce West he was up the first pitch of The Brute when I was seconding. I heard a shout then a scream and watched as Pam fell from the second pitch of The Hill. He was high up and I saw some gear pull and he ended up just of the ground by a few inches. It was an horrific fall to watch. Jock had just stopped him hitting the ground by inches. He was hanging on his harness with a face full of character. I will never forget the noise as he fell and I had witnessed many falls in the past. He was pretty shook up but still all there when lowered to the ground. There were soon other climbers around including Glenmore. Pam got lowered he looked okay but was pretty spaced out with shock by his big fall.
He was battered but seemed okay and more worried about his bandoleer of gear he had lost as he fell. It is still I would imagine in the boulders and ferns at the bottom of the cliff? There are a few dead sheep here!
First Aid – Pam was leading he was training for the Eiger North face though very young. Others had checked him but I got down and said we would look after him. I checked him over again. He climbing in shorts and his Willians Harness it had cut into his groin like a knife due the fall. Pam was pretty worried when he saw it and the shock kicked in. I was really worried to was very near the main artery so we hobbled off not easy through the boulder field into my old Simca car. I thought we could get medical help in Aviemore but we had to go to Inverness.
I drove like a loony and when we got to AE we were told to wait. Pam was struggling by now so I asked the receptionist to get a doctor . I was told to wait. I told Pam to drop his pants and he showed her the cut. The doctor was called and Pam was stitched up. He was told if the cut had been any deeper he could have died as the blood loss would have killed him. Pam was as hard as nails. He was stitched up and given the all clear to go. He had used one of his 9 lives.
He was told to take a few weeks of climbing. Within three weeks we climbed: Eagles Ridge on Lochnagar, The Long Climb on Ben Nevis (when his stitches came out) another group were horrified as his wound stated to bleed near the top of the route Tailisman and Clean Sweep in the Cairngorms and a fast ascent of Long Climb on Ben Nevis.
We climbed a lot together and then he went off next year to attempt to climb the North Face of the Eiger with his mate Joe. Now that’s another story. Sadly Jock is no longer with us died at a young age of skin cancer. I will never forget what he said when he found that Pam was okay, he offered to help me but I said I was ok then he asked “if anyone fancied finishing the route! “
Typical Jock What a man. Pam went on to climb many more routes.
I am struggling with my health and the hardest part is staying mentally strong I am so lucky being surrounded by friends who help. I want for nothing and thank you all This is going to be a difficult period as I get a biopsy on Friday. Also with Lockerbie coming up soon it’s always a dark time for me me and others I always hear from those involved who are struggling.
If you have contacts that can help in these dark times please send me information on who to contact so I can pass it on to others. I treat it as climbing good and bad days come and go but kindness is a great support. Thank you all.
Lockerbie window of Remembrance
Could all my Armed Forces Friends please repost this,
Email: helpline@combatstress.org.uk No former or current member of the UK Armed Forces should feel they are alone. Please don’t be afraid to reach out and contact these numbers/ email for help.
Sorry for no blogs not been great health wise recently and yesterday was was not a great day. My liver is not great and I was carrying a lot of fluid in my body. My doctor at Moray medical has practice Doctor Ferguson and team sent me immediately to A & E in Elgin. There they drained 9 litres of fluid out of my body and it was a long day.
The kindness and care I received was so excellent. The whole team dd their bit. I also have to thank Diane a pal who took me in and later took me home 10 hours later. I am pretty sore but will have a low key weekend.
The country just now is shambolic and all parties are to blame. The NHS is struggling I feel all politicians should all be working together to sort things out it. Sadly in my view they are all they are all far to tribal. We need young leaders to for the future to sort out this mess.
Please fight for the NHS it needs your support. I am going to have a quite weekend I need nothing just some time to get better. Take care I am surrounded by love and great folk I need for nothing.
For many years Creag Meagaidh was a hill that I did a lot of Call-outs on supporting the Lochaber or Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Teams. There were a lot of Avalanches on the mountain and its complex plateau can be extremely difficult to get off at the end of a winters day.
Creag Meagaidh is a magnificent massif, a bare plateau fringed by some of the grandest cliffs in Scotland. In winter it can be extremely difficult to get off in bad weather. In my view it’s one of the most tricky mountains in Scotland.
Typical spindrift day
This mountain has so many classic ice climbs I had done many add in call-outs yet in bad weather especially a white out the plateau had no shelter. Getting off on a wild night with a casualty could be extreme. The great cliffs in a big winter hold huge cornices over the gullies. In the dark you have to take great care.
The great cliffs
The tale: I was with the Kinloss team assisting Lochaber on a big Callout with a fallen climber on one of the big ice routes. We helped Lochaber carry gear to the top of the hill. The weather was to bad for helicopter assistance
We had been out for the weekend with the team. As often these incidents occur on our way back from Glencoe. There had been a lot of accidents that weekend we had been helping Glencoe MRT. I was tired and looking forward to a night at home.
It’s hard going after a day on the hill and the brave stretcher guide got the casualty down to waiting troops on the Corrie. It was wild in plateau as we got the gear tidied up. The Lochaber boys went down by the Window to help along with some of our boys.
I was left on the plateau with 3 troops and my dog Teallach and we carried lots of gear. It was late now and pitch dark the wind and snow was blasting us we just wanted to get down. Navigation is extremely hard at night with the snow battering us it had to be tight in group management and the timings and compass bearing and pacing.
As always we arrived and helped carry the gear Stretcher, casualty bag and crag gear. Lochabers analready had a fast party ahead. In these days it was simple Mick Tighe or another of the Lochaber went down the face with us all lowering on figure of eights. Manpower was used if no belay about. There maybe only 1 rope used. Unlike today and the Rigging for Rescue. You still have to get it there and without helicopter assistance it’s shanks pony. Add in all your winter kit it’s a heavy load. ( no wonder my back is causing problems.
Spindrift
We were all very tired the effects of the weekend and the weather were taking its toll. By now the visibility bad though it was by torch light got worse. Add to that the wind was pushing us near the huge cornices. We were heading for spot height 1007 Puist Coire Ardair where we hoped we could hopefully descend,
My area knowledge was fairly useless it had to be dead reckoning. I thought about roping me up as I was in front but the effort of getting the rope out was I thought too difficult. Teallach was out in front as usual struggling in the conditions. He stopped I sent him on and he vanished we were right on the Cornice. I could do nothing checked the bearing THE WIND had pulled us near the cliffs it was over 60 mph. I felt awful that dog meant so much by I had other priorities.
What could I do; my main concern was my to my party. We had to get off. I walked on my bearing and adjusted for the wind. Eventually we reached the top. The radios were busy with the casualty and I did not want to say my dog was missing. The slopes were now a time bomb with an Avalanche risk. I will be honest that I had to put the dog out of my mind and concentrate of getting off safely.
Then just as we started descending I saw a glow light in the darkness it was Teallach alive and ok. I was so happy gave him some food and he was back in front leading us off . I must admit I had a big lump in my throat.
I was so glad when we got down exhausted mentally and physically. The casualty was already off and the team were waiting for us. We told them the story the dog was fast asleep in the landrover.
Top tips
Have two navigating one at front and one at back. I saw the guys struggling and stupidly tried to do it all myself.
The wind made us veer slightly from the bearing keep that in mind.
We were very tired it makes mistakes easy to make.
I was so worried about the party on the hill concentrating for so long is hard.
The dog knew better yet he was very aware of cornices even though we did not see them he could feel the air and was very wary.
My vision was awful despite prescription googles they kept fogging up. Add in a high wind the snow being blown about causing heavy spindrift, darkness and a featureless plateau it was extremely difficult.
Teallach continued to be a great hill dog despite my daft decision.
Sadly I have had to sell my van and stop driving. Most folk are happy with this but it’s another huge part of my independence gone. I have felt a little better managing short walks with poles is all I can do now but at least I am getting out now as the weather is okay. Still get very tired, concentration poor and hard to type as the hands shake a lot. At least I am still going.
The club Moray Mountaineering Club had a great meet in Skye the weather was fine at loch Coruisk and all had a a great visit. To visit Skye for the first time is mind blowing. It is Alpine and a place of many memories and I think those on there first trip will be back.
The sun is out so I will have walk with a pal. That will cheer the soul. I miss the hills more and more but have received some more wonderful messages that are so kind so thank you all
I often went to Galloway mainly with my Dad. We climbed most of the hills often the Merrick ,Corserine and many others. It’s a lot different from Arran rolling hills. In my early days my Dad would take me here.
It was not far from Ayr and as a young boy I loved it. There was few people about on the hill in these days. Every hill was an adventure and there were plenty of aircraft crashes.
The Galloway Hills are part of the Southern Uplands of Scotland, and form the northern boundary of western Galloway. They lie within the bounds of the Galloway Forest Park, an area of some 300 square miles of largely uninhabited wild land, managed by Forestry and Land Scotland.
Back hill of Bush
I will never forget arriving about 12 years old and the fire was on and listening to the tales and stories round the fire. Everyone was so kind and helpful and I was in complete awe of them.
The total exhaustion of arriving after a big day with huge packs and just a wee boy then struggling after a hard day. Being given a cup of tea by some kindly person who saw this wee bedraggled youth and took pity on me.
The smells of the wood fire, the steaming wet gear and the woo at the door left by the forestry all these memories are still with me nearly 50 years on!listening to the tales of the mountains and Silver Flow that swallowed forestry machines in its mud. Falling asleep by candlelight.
That’s why I love the Bothies, they are unique to Scotland by allowed grace of the landowners and the Mountain Bothies Association whose great folk who maintain them. Sadly I think it’s now closed. The whole area has been devastated by the mines closing and no jobs. What a tragic drive through the villages places I used to play football against so run done. My memories are not of the soaring drugs problem but of fun days on the hills.
Sadly I think the bothy is shut is an area of great names:The Silver Flow, Nic of the Dungeon wich is full of history. The whole area
Travelling from my hometown in Ayr we holidayed in the nearby Arran the boat over was always like coming to another world! We were a big family of 5 kids ( i was the youngest) that feeling of being on a ferry is a great experience. Add in the mountains and it’s stays with you for ever.
I have always loved the mountains due to my family in their love of these places. My earlier memories were spent in Arran walking in Glen Rosa then onto Goatfell and most the other hills over the my early days. My Dad would tell us tales like the “ famous murder on Goatfell”
My Dad would go and find the aircraft crashes of which there are many a few going back to USA when they crashed. All would end in a walk down Glen Rosa. Where we would stop for a swim in the beautiful granite pools. They would remain a superb memory over the years. We would be rewarded by my Dad having a big bar of chocolate that we eagerly awaited by us all. Mum was great she loved the hills and with 5 kids on tow she kept us going. We had no gear as was the normal Sometimes we would go to the great cliffs below. Cir mor there might be a climber gearing up. I was in awe of them and watched then climb the cliffs. Occasionally we would get to talk to them I was amazed by their ropes and gear plus stories. We would scramble on the summits the views of the sea and the mountains spectacular.
The 15th July 1889 was a busy day on the Isle of Arran as it was Fair Monday. A number of visitors opted to climb Goatfell though many were put off by the cloud lingering on the summit. It seemed a day like any other, but that evening there would be an tragic event which would lead to one of the biggest man-hunts in Scottish criminal history, as well as a sensational murder trial. This is the story of the Goatfell tragedy and its aftermath, described by the Glasgow Herald as ‘the most remarkable tale of crime and retribution in the annals of Scottish judicial history’.Simple gear my brother Michael and sister Jenifer
We saw adders on the path basking the granite colours in the river and the Glen was always a special place. The island was so green with massive ferns if you lost the path. We knew where the Eagles were and saw them most days. At the end we would stop by the Glen Rosa’s camping site and collect empty bottles that could get money for chips in Brodick “early recycling”; You could smell the chips in the way into the town: They were always great and kept us going up the big hill to Corygills.
These days 1958 there were rowing boats in the bay “ no health and Safety” then. A classic crazy golf putting green on the front and a shop near the beach you could get anything. Yet it was the hills the island it’s nooks and crannies that you could explore.
I was often back to Arran climbing many of the great climbs on the cliffs. Seeing the island in winter being high and I even managed a few ice climbs. Yet I would never forget my early days
Please take this blog as it’s meant to be: I have Stage 4 liver disease and a big Respiratory problem I have been very open with my illness and felt it would be easier to be honest. My life expectancy is a year. The winter has been brutal on me and the constant rain stopped my daily walks. You can help me by reading this.
No visitors please – This is a reminder : I sadly do not want visitors I only went over to the bothy a cafe across the road for 30 min and was wasted spent most of the day in bed. My energy levels are so low, recovery is slow, I love people but do not have the strength to cope
Medical Questions- Folk ask so many questions what drugs are you on. What is the state of my illness I know they are caring but I cannot repeat all my details daily. I do not want to talk about it every conversation. I get out on short walks these when I have the energy make me so much better. I have the sea and forest nearby when I feel better.
Trips to bothies drives etc – Offers to take me on a drive visit old haunts. I cannot managed an even a drive it’s kind but sadly not for me. Sorry,
Please accept this not a tge ramblings of an old man I appreciate all your kindness and would appreciate if you could pass this on. Do not put anything off in life get out there and grab it.
I have always enjoyed the Bothies I was very young about aged 11 when I visited my first bothy in Galloway. This was mid 60. I met a few characters and would sit and learn about the hills.it was some classroom. It gave me so much and over my 60 years I have visited so many. On my Big Walks they were used a lot and we even buried food there. We went round with the helicopter collecting rubbish from them.
On my big walks I had a few interesting things happening on them. One was at Luibeilt. We had just completed the Mamores a big day in winter. Add in 4 days food and sleeping gear.We were exhausted and the final drag from the Mamores was wet and extremely hard going.
Some of the early Big Walks.
South of Meanach Bothy on the other side of the river the stands the remains of the old stalkers’ lodge Luibeilt. It hasn’t been possible to stay there for many years and is now little more sadly a ruin.
Winter Walk
When we arrived at a bothy the other two changed and I got stove on with some soup. If possible I would if there was any dry wood get the fire going. Then I would hand over to the other two. The bothy was dark and cold very rough. There were a few candles about and they lit them. There was plenty of dry wood about in a huge pile.
As I was getting sorted Jim was putting a lot of wood on the fire the bothy lit up. We heard a voice a man emerged from the wood. He had a big hunting knife and was carving some bit of wood. For some reason he spoke to me and said he had been alone in bothy.
He was extremely depressed and lived in London. We were exhausted it had been a long day. Terry and Jim went to bed and I had chat for 20 minutes then left him with his knife carving his wood. We had two big days before replenishment of food at Dalwhinnie. I gave him my chocolate and some soup. I hardly slept. It was snowing heavy all night.
The snow really made the walking hard We had an epic getting over the 5 Munro’s arriving at Culra in the dark. Next day was over Beinn Alder and Beinn Bhoil then a day of at Dalwhinnie. We were exhausted and we had a surprise as Jimmy Simpson had a message from Kinloss to stop the walk. The A9 was shut tons of snow had fallen. We decided to carry on but that’s another tale.
A few months later we had visitor the bothy man he was well recovered and thanked us for what we did for him. Strange world the bothies were quite then big changes from these days .
They are a unique part of Scotland and many have helped those in trouble on the hill. A lot are closed now Culra or ruins like Luibelt. A A A few landowners have taken them back and some are now holiday homes. Like Affric White Cottage.
What we have in Scotland is the envy of many there is nothing like sitting by a bothy fire after a long day. I envy you all.
Please if you use the bothies please join the Mountain bothies Association it good to help them.
Old mans thoughts and tales. 
